Essaouira Surf & Travel Guide – ALL You Need To Know About Wind City

They call Essaouira the wind city. It’s easy to see why. The strong sirocco from the Sahara meets the seasonal trade winds off the Atlantic at this point on the Moroccan coast. They swirl and smash into each other to create pretty much constant gusts. Of course, that plays havoc with the waves, especially when the wind is at its highest in the summer.

However, don’t go writing off that Essaouira surf trip just yet.

The city does boast a long scythe of golden sand just on its southern side. It’s a gorgeous beach, but also gets some decent beginner waves during the winter season, when cross-Atlantic westerlies are in full flow.

In addition, the southernmost end of Essaouira beach is a veritable mecca for kitesurfers.

Finally, the coast that runs south from here hosts some of the country’s most upcoming and lesser-known surf spots, which you can reach with after just half an hour in an affordable taxi. Sidi Kaouki is chief among them and is now seen as a chilled alterantive to Taghazout.

That said, we wouldn’t recommend Essaouira if you’re solely coming to Morocco to get on the waves. This one’s much better for seeing a little culture and tasting some tagine with a bit of surfing on the side. The fact that Essaouira is a downright gorgeous town of medieval coral-stone walls and dusty streets with cafés and medinas is just a bonus on that front.

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Essaouira surf at a glance

Wave type: Beach break, kitesurfing // Level: Beginner // Season: Winter

Where is Essaouira?

Essaouira is around two thirds down the west coast of Morocco. It occupies a headland that pokes out into the Atlantic Ocean on the one side. To the east are the foothills of the Atlas Mountains.

The popular tourist city of Marrakesh – one of our personal favorite cities in Africa – is just under three hours’ drive inland.

Casablanca is about four hours’ drive to the north-east. Morocco’s most famous surf town of Taghazout sits two hours away by car, past some of the best surfing territory in the whole country.

How to get to Essaouira?

There are currenlty only a few low-cost links to Essaouira-Mogador Airport from France and London Stansted, along with a few other cities in Morrocco. It’s not an uber-popular airport but it’s possible to jet right in. We do expect more and more flights to be made available in coming years.

Getting to Ess from other major airports in the country also isn’t hard. Probably the best bet is either a flight to Agadir or Marrakesh, where you can pick up a direct shuttle (or fav choice) or public bus (the cheaper way to go).

Here’s a bit more detail on those and how to book…

• Bus – A bus to Essaouira from Marrakesh (where most people will land after traveling to Morocco) takes about three hours. There’s a single stop in a town with cafés and coffee shops along the way. Buses are relatively comfy, with undercarriages for luggage and air conditioning throughout. Look for Supratours for the most popular service – we rode them and they are pretty comfy.
• Private shuttles – You can search and book private shuttles from major cities on 12Go. It’s a nice way of doing things becuase shuttle stations in Marrakesh and the like can be hectic to say the least. This way, at least you’ll know a pick-up time and a point in advance. Souk to Surf are also worth knowing about. They run regular shuttles up the coast from various surf towns, linking Essaouira to Tamraght with loads of stops in betweeen.

Where to surf in Essaouira?

For us, there’s quite an easy answer to this question: Sidi Kaouki.

It’s an upcoming surf hub that’s now seen as a kinda’ chilled version of Taghazout, only it’s great for beginners and casual surfers since it’s beach break for the most part. It’s a 30-minute drive south of town and can be visited for a few days or as a day trip. There are loads of rentals, surf schools, and good surf hotels right on the beach, so it’s a cinch to organize.

Apart from that, this city doesn’t sit on the cusp of umpteen spots that could lay claim to being the best in North African like Taghazout. But there are some great options, largely on the beginner-friendly side of the spectrum. Most go south of the town. We’ll run through them all here, starting on the main urban beach.

Surf camps in Essaouira

Although there’s not a top, top surf break right on the doorstep in Essaouira like you get in Taghazout or Imsouane, we actually kinda’ like the city as a surf camp base.

The reason? Well…we like the city full stop. It’s medina is truly atmospheric, there are great places to eat, excellent cafes – the list goes on.

If you’ve got a camp that includes transport to local breaks anyway, you’ll probably be surfing in Sidi K and then returning to enjoy the cultural draws of the city later on.

Of course, the better option is staying in Sidi K and traveling up to Essaouira when you want a taste of the town. That way, you get to surf every day!

• Holy Surf Maroc (8-day surf and yoga) – This is the most comprehensive surf camp package on offer out of Essaouira. It’s a full week of daily lessons and yoga practice (six of each in total) based in the nearby town of Sidi Kaoki. Lessons are delivered by BF1 qualified instructors and you get to stay in a charming villa in the heart of the surf village.
• Atlanticzin Watersports (4-day beginner pack surf camp) – You’ll stay in a gorgeous riad hotel in the heart of the medina of Essaouira. Each day, surf lessons take place either on the city beach or in nearby Sidi and all transport is included. The whole thing is aimed squarely at beginners, and we like the balance between exploring the city and hitting the waves if you’re not uber-serious about surf, surf, and more surf.
• Atlanticzin Watersports (6-day surf camp) – This is the same surf camp as above only it’s the 8-day option and has more advanced sessions for intermediate surfers.

Where to stay in Essaouira?

Essaouira is a great place to stay if you’re keen to mix up culture and surfing in Morocco.

To prioritise the waves, we’d recommend focusing on hotels near the beach or in nearby Sidi Kaouki (we list one of the best for surfers below).

For exploring the medina and souks and old fortifications with a potential side trip to the swells, go for somewhere in the historic heart of Essaouira itself (Villa Garance is my pick). Hotels in there are often very enticing riad-style hotels that are a fantastic experience (think Moroccan mint tea served on sea-view rooftops).

• Auberge De La Plage [in Sidi Kaouki] – A taste of real Moroccan beach life awaits at this rustic yet charming guesthouse. It’s got a yoga space on the roof, and a lovely garden where you can chill and sip mint tea at the end of the day.
• Villa Garance [Essaouria] – Tucked in the middle of the lovely Essaouria medina, this is still one of the best riad hotels I’ve stayed at in Morocco. The rooms are pretty opulent but it’s breakfasts on the rooftop terrace that steal the show.
• Riad Mazal Mogador [Essaouria] – Another very nice riad hotel in the old center of Essaouria, close to the bulwarks of the ancient city, and offering a cracking breakfast spread every morning.
• Hostel La Smala [Essaouria] – The bargain choice, though one with real style. This hostel is perched on the old walls of the city above the ocean. The dorms have a punchy, pop-culutre feel, and that rooftop terrace-cafe is incredible.

Surf lessons in Essaouira

• Essaouira Surfing – Two hours of beginner-friendly surf in uncrowded spots is what’s promised by this very highly rated outfitter. They include wetsuit rental, boards, and transport to a local break. It’s made up of on-sand practice and then in-water practice.
• Explora Watersports – With one base here in Essaouira and one in Tarifa, it’s no secret that these guys’ first passion is windsurfing and kiteboarding. But they also run fantastic surf lessons during the winter season (when there’s not much wind around Essaouira). It’s the best option for people in multi-level groups since they can cater tuition to more advanced surfers if need be.

When to surf in Essaouira?

The winter is the best time to surf in Essaouira. That means coming between November and March, when there are strong NW currents in the Atlantic and – crucially – the wind here dies down a little. The summer months are much more blustery and better suited to kitesurfers.

Winter (November-April)

This is the prime season for Essaouira surf. Winds dip. Atlantic NW are in action. The heat drops off to leave longer sessions in the morning before the breezes ruin the glass. It’s all to play for. Things start in earnest around November time. However, for the biggest swells of overheads at Morocco’s biggest wave spots on the points near Essaouira, you’ll likely need to wait until December through to Jan.

Remember that even on the most powerful of W-NW swell, Essaouira Beach isn’t the best surf spot. It’s great for beginners because it’s well protected. More advanced riders or serious intermediates will prefer Sidi Kaouki, where there are loads of surf lodges right by the beachfront and a whole range of peaks to pick from (see above).

Summer (May-September)

The months between May and August see a real uptick in the strength of the coastal winds around Essaouira. Bearing in mind this city is famous for its winds, so that means some serious gusts. They’re enough to destroy any glassy walls and completely blow out nice conditions.

In fact, we’d recommend leaving the hotter months to beginners who don’t mind riding mushy whitewash.

Whenever you decide to visit, DO NOT FORGET: Sunscreen! Seriously it can get hot hot hot in Morocco.

One thing we wouldn’t skip on is sunscreen.

I use Suntribe’s blocks because they’ve made a real effort to strip out any unneccessary chemicals.

Plus, they offer Surf Atlas readers 10% off orders with code Surfatlas10.

Surf shops in Essaouira

Essaouira has some fine surf shops. Some even post regular updates on conditions and swells, so you can get your fix of local wave knowledge before hitting the hammam.

• Gipsy Surfer – I’d say this is the best surf shop in Essaouira by a country mile. It’s sleek and breezy with uber-friendly staff. The stock ranges from well-known global surf brands to some local tees and shorts. You can check out the rack of boards and get your fill of other hardware – leashes, tail pads, wetsuits. The folk are also really friendly and know plenty about the local spots. Don’t be afraid to ask about conditions and where to go.
• Explora Kite & Surf Shop – The Explora name is a leader in the kitesurfing scene in Essaouira. However, they also offer some things in the way of traditional surf hardware and fashion Look for their small outlet in the medina. Or, head down to their board rental post right on Essaouira Plage.

Where to eat in Essaouira?

We’d say that Essaouira is one of the best cities in all of Morocco for dining. But we’re veggies and that’s largely based on the more European offering of foods that’s often meat-free. Check out some of our favorite haunts…

• Shyadma’s Vegan Food – Meat free? Don’t miss this one. It was arguably the best veggie/vegan food we had during our whole time in Morocco. The chickpea tagine is damn fine. You’ll also get a cracking set of nibbles to kick off the meal: Cumin with doughy flatbreads, salty North African olives, spicy harissa. Yum.
• Pasta Baladin – Get in nice and early. The tables of this small Italiano eatery on the main street of the Essaouira medina fill up fast. You’ll want to score one of the seats outside, too, if only for the stunning views of the centuries-old city walls that loom above. Meals are a nice break from Moroccan cuisine – think linguine and tagliatelle with a choice of tomato and cheese sauces. There’s plenty for veggies.
• The Hungry Nomad – The Hungry Nomad is just as much a social event as a place to grab a bite to eat. The multi-dish selection is cheap and includes couscous, spicy lentil dals, salads and a whole load more. Expect a communal vibe where everyone chats to the person next to them. Great rooftop.

Things to do when you’re not surfing in Essaouira?

Essaouira is a great, great town. You should come here for a bit if you plan on surfing or not.

From the immersive souk markets and imposing bulwarks to the amazing canyons and dunesapes nearby, there’s loads to get through…