Bocas del Toro surf is jewel in the crown of the Caribbean side of Panama. Working best in the dry season months from Dec-March, it’s got something for all – think cruisy beach wedges and heavy slab reefs alike. This guide has all you need to plan the perfect trip.
An introduction to Bocas del Toro surf
Bocas del Toro Province is one of the jewels in the crown of the Panamanian tourism scene. Fragmenting in to the Caribbean Sea off the north coast of the country, it’s made up of six large islands and umpteen tiny islets. They each slope into the most clear-blue seas you ever did lay eyes on and are fringed by beaches that would make Thailand blush. It’s a great place to be.
And then you add in the surf. From December to March, this region gets a good hit of S-SE swells that come straight up from low-pressure systems hovering around the Colombian coast. Yes, it’s primarily windswell but it moves over 400 miles of open sea before hitting Panama at Bocas and that allows for plenty of time for the sets to power up, glass out, and arrive in style.
The main focus of surfing in Bocas del Toro is on three islands: Isla Colon, Isla Carenero, and the Isla Bastimentos, which is the centrepiece of its own national park. We think you’ll be surprised at the sheer diversity of breaks that exists among those. There’s heavy shorebreak pounders that tube out like Supertubos. There are spinning reef barrels for the shortboard scholars. There are even gurgling beach breaks for learners with neat, clean peaks.
Obviously, choosing between the Caribbean and the Pacific side of Panama is a decision best governed by seasons. However, if you do happen to swing by when Bocas is in full flow (Dec-March, or June-Aug), it’s certain to impress with that sought-after combo of warm H2O, regular barrels, and good vibes.
We might use affiliate links in this post. Basically, you click em’ and we get a little something from your booking or purchase. They help us keep offering more and more in-depth surf guides to awesome places all around the globe. So, thanks for that!
This guide is just one part of our complete guide to surfing in Panama
Bocas del Toro at a glance
The good…
The bad…
What’s in this guide to Bocas del Toro?
Where is Bocas del Toro?
Bocas del Toro is an archipelago and a province located on the northwestern Caribbean coast of Panama. The archipelago consists of several islands, with Isla Colón being the most developed and housing the main town, Bocas Town.
Go just a touch north from here and you’ll actually cross over into another of Central America’s big surf hubs: Costa Rica. That should give you just a hint at the fine cross-Caribbean Sea swells that can come this way.
How to get to Bocas del Toro?
The fastest way is to fly directly from Tocumen International Airport (PTY) or Albrook Marcos A. Gelabert Airport (PAC) in Panama City to Bocas del Toro International Airport (BOC). There are daily flights offered by domestic carriers and they usually won’t break the bank.
The overland and sea connection works like this: Take a bus from Panama City’s Albrook Bus Terminal to Almirante, the port town on the mainland. This journey typically takes around 10-11 hours. From Almirante, catch a water taxi (around 30 minutes) to Bocas Town on Isla Colón. It’s a cheaper way to go but will take at least 11 hours.
Bocas del Toro surf spots
There are three main islands that host 90% of the surf in the Bocas region. From north to south, they are: Isla Colon, Isla Carenero, and the Isla Bastimentos.
Let’s take a look at the key spots on each in turn and see what level of surfer they’re best suited to…
Isla Colon
Bluff (Bluff Beach)
The shape of the drop-off at Bluff Beach creates a whole string of heavy, pounding shore breaks that’s not for the faint of heart. To be honest, this is usually a playground for tray riders and nothing more than that. If the period lengthens a touch it can take some moxie out of the wave and mean it’s more makeable for your average joe, though we’re still talking pray-to-god drop ins into immediate backdoor tube sessions. It’s like Supertubos came to the Caribbean, only on crack.
Dumpers
On the reefs that face due southeast on the side of Isla Colon as you head toward the famous Paunch Reef, there’s an out-and-out bodyboarder spot called Dumpers. It’s not that dumpy. It’s named for the rubbish pit across the road. The wave is a fast, fizzing barrel that reminds us of a mini Impossibles out of Bali. The lip looks real lovely at first, but the moment it breaks it will suck in on itself and create a real washing machine close to the action zone. You’ll need to surf away from the pocket a touch to ensure you don’t get caught. Better yet, leave it to the trays.
Paunch Reef
The fabled Paunch Reef has a few faces. Swells in the 2-5 foot range will see it shelve nicely off the reef and give something that’s workable for hotdogging and nice S-bend turns. Anything more than that and the Paunch shows its teeth, starting with a spinning tube section that you’ll need to navigate before coming onto a tapering shoulder that only slows a touch before dumping you out on the shallowest part of jagged coral-rock reef in the bay. It’s experts only really but a fantastic performance wave that demands good technical ability and wave knowledge.
Tiger’s Tail
The Tiger’s Tail in question here is the semi-concealed rock stack that juts out of the water towards the endzone of the wave. Watch out for that! Generally speaking, this reef break is decent but hardly spectacular. It can offer short, sharp barrel sections on the biggest storm days but usually works best in the 2-5 foot range when there will be decent chest-high sets cruising over the reef. Rocks are a perennial issue. Crowds are not – it’s one of the emptiest waves on Colon for sure!
Isla Colon
Carenero Point
The long, thin island of Carenero does struggle to get swells like its compadres. The reason? Just check the map, it’s orientated so that only the punta at its northern end is really that exposed. And that’s the spot here: Carenero Point.
There are some rights but they aren’t what you came for. The lefts are something special when they get good ESE swell sets in the winter, offering walls that can peel for 100-150 meters off the rock and out into a deeper paddle channel. There’s still reef underfoot but this one’s a touch more forgiving than other reef breaks in the region. It does section, though, with the outside offering way more room for turns than the faster, steeper inside.
Expect a crowd at Carenero Point if it’s working.
Old Man’s (Shadow Spot)
Old Man’s or Shadow Spot (call it what you will) is a mini version of the main point on Carenero. If it’s under 3 foot then don’t expect much. Over that and you can see a baby point break peeling over the reef. That reef can be shallow but the relative mellowness of the spot means that it’s seen as a good choice for intermediates who are looking to make the jump from beach breaks to reefs. Something with a bit of extra volume will help a lot here!
Carenero Point
If you’re coming to Bocas del Toro to learn how to surf then there’s a very good chance that you’ll be out at Black Rock more than once. It’s a deep-water reef break that has one of the fattest waves in the region, which means it’s slow-motion practice for a take off and low risk for meetings with resident urchins. The tardiness of the pocket here is very nice for improvers, too, as you get loads of time to complete cutbacks and roll back into the power zone. The downside? Crowds. They are ALWAYS out.
Isla Bastimentos
Silverbacks
Appropriately named Silverbacks is a gorilla of a break. It only works like it should on the heaviest of winter storms, when it converts into a crunching slab barrel right hander. You must get everything right here, since the lip is a meter thick and comes down right on jagged reef shelves. They’ll break more than just your board, and have done in the past! It’s really only alive a few times a year and is the province of the most daring local chargers and international performance surfers. Not to be toyed with!
Wizard Beach
All hail Wizard Beach. We REALLY love this spot because a) it’s gorgeous – think lines of palms stooping over white sand – and b) it’s the most versatile spot in Bocas province. Under 4 foot and it will be nothing but chest-high peaks with fun, bowly turn sections where you can hotdog to your heart’s content. Over that and it still holds nicely (up to about 8 foot), but gives off more lippy wedges that can even have mini tubes. It’s also never crowded.
Red Frog Beach
Red Frog Beach gets loads of plaudits for just how pretty it is. There’s sugar-white sand and lush coconut trees all in attendance, with a few reggae-playing shacks serving fresh seafood. The surf is okay but usually nothing more than mush. Good option for total beginners mostly.
Surf camps in Bocas del Toro
You’ll find a few surf camps in Bocas these days. They’re good if you want all your surf outings planned for you and don’t want to deal with water taxis to various spots. The best we can recommend would be:
- La Coralina Island House – This is one seriously chic stay. It emerges from the jungles right on the side of the Paunch Reef. You’ll be able to check the surf from the infinity pool, even. This 2-day package includes one night at the hotel, a surf lesson, and a yoga sesh.
Where to stay when surfing in Bocas del Toro?
The usual way to go about a Bocas del Toro surf trip is to book yourself into a hotel in the main town and do water taxi trips out from there. It works well, particularly because it means you get the pick of the best stays in the region, plus all the buzzy nightlife that goes on in the center. But we also like getting out of town and sleeping right on the local breaks, so you can surf earlier than the water taxi crowd.
There are loads of great hotel options but our top picks would be…
- Palmar Beach Lodge – Get out into the jungles of the Isla Bastimentos between Red Frog and Wizard Beach with this stunning tropical lodge. It’s got rooms in tropical shacks with decks perched above the coconut forests. White sand beaches and surf breaks are right on the doorstep. Pretty cool place to stay if you ask us.
- Oasis Bluff Beach – If you’re after the barrels of Bluff Beach then choose a room at this well-rated hotel. Rooms are spacious, with decks overlooking the reef break. Breakfasts are just what’s needed after long dawnies.
- Hotel Bocas del Toro – A great option if you want to have the energy of Bocas Town on the doorstep. Simple, clean, welcoming, and well rated.
Step-by-step guide to planning your Bocas del Toro surf trip right now
Step one: Book flights to the Bocas del Toro surf…Lately, we like Omio for searching flights. It’s a nice interface and has lots of airline options. We also use Skyscanner because that sometimes offers deals that even beat going direct to the carrier!
Step two: Book your surf camp Book Surf Camps is the numero uno online booking platform for fully-fledged surf-stay packages on the internet right now. Then there’s Booking.com. That has consistently unbeatable rates for hotels and a nifty map feature that lets you check EXACTLY how close your hotel is to a surf break.
Step three: Get insuranceThis is kinda’ important. Not just for surf trips but for any trips. SafetyWing is great for nomad travelers. They offer rolling contracts that cover amateur surfing.
Step four (optional): Rent a car If you’re surf camping then you might not need wheels. If you’re not then we’ll just say this: We’ve never been on a surf trip that wasn’t improved by having our own car. Use RentalCars – they’re the best.
Step five: Enjoy!
For paying for stuff when you’re traveling – Get a Wise borderless card/account. They charge NOTHING for POS payments in any country and have some of the best FX rates around in our humble opinion.
When to surf in Bocas?
The prime season in Bocas del Toro is December to March. This is the dry season and offers the most consistent swells. The northeast trade winds send powerful waves to Bocas, making it ideal for those seeking big barrels and epic rides. They’re mainly coming off storms that sit off the coast of Colombia, so will be groomed into neat and powerful sets over a fetch of 400 miles of Atlantic water.
There’s a second peak surf season in Bocas in late summer – June to August. Then, direct E trades are the dominant force and swells originate off the Hurricane Belt. This time sees slightly smaller waves but has good consistency for a short period, making it better for learners and intermediates. Expect some rain.
We might use affiliate links in this post. Basically, you click em’ and we get a little something from your booking or purchase. They help us keep offering more and more in-depth surf guides to awesome places all around the globe. So, thanks for that!
