Venture to a palm-fringed cove on the Sri Lankan south coast. Cue uber-fun Hiriketiya Beach. With a beach break and a reef to contend with, there’s something for all levels of surfer in this quintessential coast town.
An introduction to Hiriketiya Beach surf
Two breaks; one beach – that’s Hiriketiya Beach in a nutshell. Set in a stunning tropical cove on the far southern edge of Sri Lanka (just about as far south as it’s possible to go and still find a surfable wave), this laid-back little town is swiftly turning into a mecca for surfers.
It’s risen from obscurity to a popular pitstop on the Sri Lankan surf trail in the last couple of years. That’s brought bigger crowds to the line up (though it’s still not too bad), along with more shops, restaurants, and nice boutique hotels to boot.
One of the reasons for the popularity is the variety of surf that’s offered. As Hiriketiya Bay spreads along its 0.5-kilometre inlet, it goes from a heavy reef to a mellow beach break. The upshot? There’s something for a wide variety of surfers.
A sand-bottomed wave rolls into the surf rental shacks on the west side of the bay for novices. There are the peaks in the middle of the bay, which break over a deep rock reef and then allow for 50-meter rides towards the sand. And then there’s the fast, walling left-hander that whips in on the east end of Hiri – leave that to the intermediates and experts.
We returned to this spot in 2022 and found that things have changed A LOT. The breaks are still pumping but there’s been considerable development in Hiri town, not least of all with the roads being paved. We have mixed feelings about it all. We obviously want to share this stunning spot but they’re tearing down lush jungles to make way for five-star hotels as we write. Not good. That said, Hiriketiya Beach is still a more chilled and laid-back surf town than other Sri Lankan spots like Ahangama and Weligama further up the coast.
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This is a part of our greater guide to Sri Lanka surf
Hiriketiya Beach surf at a glance
The good…
The bad…
What will I find in this guide to surfing in Hiriketiya Bay
Where is Hiriketiya Bay?
Huddled inside a wide scythe of a bay on the far southern edge of Sri Lanka, Hiriketiya is roughly midway between the towns of Tangalle and Matara. That puts it off the usual surfing trail of the island, but still within easy reach of the main resorts. The nearest town is Dickwella (also spelled Dikwella). That’s relatively small but has all the necessary amenities – ATM, grocery shops, pharmacy. The nearest major city is Matara itself, around 14 miles to the west along the coast.
The trip from the airport (Colombo Airport/Bandaranaike International Airport) to Hiriketiya takes about 2.5 hours in a private transfer. They should cost around 12,000-15,000 LKR ($60-75) in total including surfboards. To organize a pick up, post in the South Sri Lanka Surf Community Facebook group or use Sri Lanka Car and Driver Hire.
How to get to Hiriketiya Bay
Although it’s one of the farther-flung surf spots on the Sri Lankan south coast, it’s never usually a problem to get to Hiriketiya Bay. In fact, you can get a direct transfer from the airport in about three hours, and that’s something that’s easy to organize by messaging your hotel or surf camp.
- Transfer (taxi to Hiriketiya Beach): Most travelers will opt for a private transfer straight from the airport in Colombo. That’s particularly helpful if you’re coming in with a surfboard. (Bear in mind that Qatar Airways remains the surfer’s favourite – they allow boards to be checked as part of luggage allowance, and as an extra to your existing bags).
- Bus to Hiriketiya Beach: There are regular local buses that also run the route along the main roads of the south coast. Look for the ones heading to Dickwella – the nearest town to Hiriketiya Bay. They’re sure to be the cheapest choice (a couple of hundred rupees each way).
- Bus from Ella to Hiriketiya: Getting from Ella to Hiriketiya Bay is another popular way of coming to the south coast. We recently did that trip on a local bus and it cost a mere 250 LKR each! Granted, we didn’t have our surfboards with us and we stood for most of the journey, but it was an experience!
- Train to Hiriketiya: Trains might be more comfortable. Regular services run along the south-west coast of the island. They link Colombo with Matara, going through the handsome colonial city of Galle along the way. You can get off at Matara and grab a local tuk tuk straight to Hiriketiya Bay. Be sure to haggle.
Of course, all this depends on getting to Sri Lanka in the first place. That almost always involves a flight into the Bandaranaike International Airport in Colombo (CMB). It’s got plenty of excellent long-haul links to Europe on carriers like Sri Lankan and Qatar (who also happen to offer free carriage of surfboard), along with loads of other shorter connections to other destinations (some of them surf destinations) in Asia. We use Skyscanner to check for flights all the time. It’s got a nifty calendar feature that lets you see the price of flights on days on and after your departure and compares loads of airlines in seconds.
The latest on Hiri (as of early 2023)
This time last year we were worried about Hiriketiya turning into yet another mass tourism hotspot on the Sri Lanka southwest coast. A huge part of the jungle just back from the western end of the beach was being torn down to make way for a hotel that some cynical (rightly!) locals told us was the product of the right backhander to the right politician.
Since then, there’s been a major political upheaval in Sri Lanka. Make no bones about it – it was REALLY bad for the country. The whole place almost went bankrupt, although tourism did continue on and there wasn’t all that much difference on the ground for travelers and surfers.
The government troubles seem to have slowed development in Hiri just a little. Things are still going on, but we’d say there are still some years left to enjoy this as the heaven on Earth that it really is. The best you can do is to book hotels that are locally run and owned and use the local guys on the beach for your surf lessons.
A guide to Hiriketiya Bay surf spots
There are two surf spots in Hiriketiya Bay. It’s the fact that they’re so different – one challenging, the other easy-going – that makes the town such an attractive prospect. On small days, you can usually head out and ride the more powerful reef. When things are blown out elsewhere, there’s good shelter that helps keep things surfable closer to the beach.
The Hiriketiya beach break
Located on the western side of Hiriketiya Bay, the beach break is the most popular surf spot in town. It’s usually got a line up, but don’t be put off – there are plenty of waves to go around.
The sets that roll through here offer great variety for both longboarders and shortboarders. Some wall up for drop ins. Others are fat A-frames that glide neatly. Strictly speaking, the spot is a left-hander, but we’ve seen it go right, especially if you take off closer to the center of the bay.
The beach break starts roughly where the reef (see below) leaves off. However, names can be deceiving. If you choose a take-off point in the middle of Hiri, as most intermediates do, you will be surfing over rocks for 50 meter or so before you enter the sand-bottomed section of the bay.
Total beginners can stick to the second waves that plump up nicely right in front of the surf rental shacks on the western end of the beach. That’s usually where the surf schools go, and it can be a nice practice spot that’s got sand underfoot the whole way.
Bad points to the Hiriketiya Bay beach break include closeout sets that seem to roll through without warning, and crowds. Oh, and since a week-long flat spell on our last trip in 2022, some days when there are ZERO waves!
The Hiriketiya Bay reef point break
Roaring into the headland on the eastern point of Hiriketiya Bay is the town’s upper-intermediate/expert reef break. Known for its quick, peeling left-hander that starts on the rocks about 100 meters out from Peter’s Place bar, it’s got a fast take off section and ends up over some very shallow reefs that are infested with urchins (we saw about three people get spiked in just a week!).
If you can catch it, there’s a lovely ride that can take you from the headland all the way to the middle of the bay – some 150 meters at its best. The swells here can hold up to six foot. The wave begins quite sucky but soon mellows into a shoulder that’s medium-steep but rarely hollow.
Dickwella/Dikwella
The wide bay of Dickwella is abou 10 minutes’ walk from Hiriketiya through groves of coconut palms. There are now loads of great hotels dotting the path there and a few good eateries to boot. Anyway, there’s a wave here but it’s really small and tends to be pretty shifty with currents. Basically no one surfs it. The whole town goes to Hiriketya when it’s time to surf!
We’ve got a full guide to the surf in Dickwella – clue, it’s mainly about Hiriketiya!
Kudawella Beach
Kudawella Beach is sort of what Hiri was about five years back, only the wave in the bay is WAY more fickle. For that reason, we don’t ever think that this horseshoe run of sand to the west will ever be quite as popular. When it does work, you get a super mellow right off the rocks on the inside of the beach. It’s good for beginners, which explains the rental spots that cluster around the edges of the beach here. There’s now one or two surf schools that are good value for money, but they’ll often transport you to Hiriketiya itself when it’s flat in Kudawella, which it often is!
A guide to the Hiriketiya Beach surf season
We surfed in Hiriketiya for a whole week in the 2019/2020 season and didn’t see a day without good waves. That doesn’t mean they don’t come, but there’s a certain consistency to this spot. Update: We had a whole flat week – yep a WHOLE week! – in Hiriketiya in January 2022. It was a lull that affected most all of the south-west coast, from Weligama up. Just goes to show that the forecasters aren’t talking rubbish when they say that the period before Christmas is generally bigger.
December – March
**Peak time** – the Hiriketiya surf season is really rolling in these prime holidaying months. Not only that, but the Sri Lankan weather is perfect on the south-west coast, as the monsoon shifts eastwards to Arugam Bay. Dominant swells come in from the west during this time, which cuts the power and sculpts a nice beginner wave on the beach of Hiriketiya. Intermediates might prefer to come in before that happens, but for first-time riders it’s a doozy.
Wear: A rash vest/bikini/shorty. However, some folk wear a surf hat to keep the sun off
April – August
As the storms set in across south-western Sri Lanka it’s time to batten down the hatches and crack out the raincoat. But monsoon doesn’t necessarily mean the end of surfing in Hiriketiya. You’ll often find the locals paddling out to catch the gnarly storm surges. And you might get lucky and find something rideable on the beach. It’s just not the most reliable time, and certainly not the best for learning.
Wear: A rash vest/bikini/shorty. However, some folk wear hats to keep the sun off
August – November
This is a great time to plan a Hiriketiya surf trip. Not only are the waves enjoying changing swell directions that mix strong southerlies with less-powerful westerlies. The result? The left-hand point is working well. It’s got high walls and zippy rides for the intermediates and the pros. What’s more, there’s a good mix of waves coming in the sets of the Hiriketiya beach break. Some are high and fast. Some are low and mellow for longboarders. And yes, some are total closeouts.
Wear: A rash vest/bikini/shorty. But some bring a surf hat to keep the sun off.
Surf camps in Hiriketiya
The best way to take the stress out of planning your surf trip to Hiriketiya is to book a planned surf camp. These packages roll your lessons, rentals, and even extras like yoga into one easy to manage booking. They will even throw in organized airport drop offs and pick ups for an extra fee.
We also have a guide to the 10 best surf camps in Sri Lanka right here – a couple of which are, naturally, in Hiriketiya.
(It just so happens that both of our picks below are the Salty Pelican. Honest now, we’re not affiliated with them in any way. We did drop in during our last trip in 2022 and even say them building the lodge in 2019. It’s seriously impressive and one of our top surf camps in the world RN.)
- 8-Day Yoga and Surf at The Salty Pelican – You’ll see above that we’ve already picked out the Salty Pelican as one of the very best surf stays in Hiriketiya. Well…they do full-service surf and yoga packages too. This one includes five days of surf lessons and yoga each day, along with all breakfasts and dinners. The place is gorgeous for hanging in and it’s 400 meters’ walk from the waves.
- 11-Day Yoga and Surf at The Salty Pelican – This is essentially the same as the above (the Salty Pelican really is leading the way in our opinion right now), but covers 10 nights of accommodation and seven surf lessons, plus unlimited yoga. You’ll leave feeling like a Buddhist master and ripping up the sets!
The best Hiriketiya beach hotels for surfers
You certainly won’t be short of awesome Hiriketiya Beach hotels. As of 2020/2021 season, there’s so much construction going on around town that an army of potential accommodations is likely to appear in the coming years. Some of the highest rated that are currently on the menu include:
Salt House ($$-$$$)
Ah, the lovely Salt House! The little extra you fork out for this one goes on some nice frills. Rooms here are done out with soothing whites and creams, organic materials, and four-poster beds. There’s one of the best garden pools around under the shade of the balcony. You get morning yoga programs. And you get to enjoy the on-site eatery, which offers healthy breakfasts and fresh fruit juices. The beach and surf breaks are a one-minute walk away.
The Salty Pelican ($$)
Best for: Surf-yoga packages and digital nomads
The Salty Pelican has cut its teeth in Cascais, Peniche, and Ericeira, so the folk here know a thing or two about running a top surf retreat. When we visited Hiri in 2019 it was just a shell. As of 2022 it’s arguably the hottest new hotel around. Located on the palm-fringed road between the surf breaks and chilled Dikwella, it’s got doubles and dorms all centered on a Bali-style pool. Fast WiFi and a fantastic coffeeshop-eatery only add to the mix. It’s a cracking hotel.
CasaVana ($$)
Best for: Peacefulness
CasaVana is a tranquil oasis set away from the hubbub of the main Hiriketiya Street. There are only four or five rooms, but that nurtures a lovely family feel. The house is tropical-chic, with polished concrete and natural materials running throughout. We love the outdoor bathrooms, the dogs (Margaret and Lisa), and the terrace kitchen, where you can cook or laze in a hammock while watching the macaques.
Villa Hiriketiya ($$)
Best for: Midrange rooms real close to the beach
In a large garden under high palm trees on the main street of Hiri is this nice like L-shaped hotel. A small pool is the centrepiece. People gather there to swim and chat after a day’s surf. Rooms are compact but stylish, with atmospheric lighting and a certain Tiki flair to them. Moreover, we just like the chilled-out vibe.
Dots ($-$$)
Best for: Partying
No ultimate guide to Hiriketiya Beach could possibly be complete without at least a mention of Dots. The original café/bar/hostel/hotel in town, it’s garnered something of a rep for hedonism and fun. Some people complain about the noise from the stage when trying to sleep. Others love the vibes and the late-night drinking sessions. A recent overhaul has made the place pretty nice, and it’s still the place to hit at night as of 2022.
Step-by-step guide to planning your Hiriketiya Beach trip right now
Step one: Book flights to the Hiriketiya Beach…Lately, we like Omio for searching flights. It’s a nice interface and has lots of airline options. We also use Skyscanner because that sometimes offers deals that even beat going direct to the carrier!
Step two: Book your surf camp Book Surf Camps is the numero uno online booking platform for fully-fledged surf-stay packages on the internet right now. Then there’s Booking.com. That has consistently unbeatable rates for hotels and a nifty map feature that lets you check EXACTLY how close your hotel is to a surf break.
Step three: Get insuranceThis is kinda’ important. Not just for surf trips but for any trips. SafetyWing is great for nomad travelers. They offer rolling contracts that cover amateur surfing.
Step four (optional): Rent a car If you’re surf camping then you might not need wheels. If you’re not then we’ll just say this: We’ve never been on a surf trip that wasn’t improved by having our own car. Use RentalCars – they’re the best.
Step four: Enjoy!
Surf shops in Hiriketiya Bay
There was once a solitary surf shop – and a good one, at that! – in the middle of Hiriketiya. Sadly, Left4Days now done a disappearing act as of 2022 and it looks like there’s a new hotel being built in its place. We did eventually find it tucked into the backstreets but it wasn’t open the whole time we were in town, which was more than a month!
Left4Days
There’s really only one surf shop in Hiriketiya Bay. Luckily is a good one! Find Left4Days sitting under a cluster of lanky palm trees midway up the main road. It’s fronted with a grassy garden and offers coffees for sale. Small and compact, it’s housed in a re-used shipping container, but you’ll still be able to find all the necessaries: rash vests, wax, leashes, fins, sun cream.
There are currently no second-hand board sales available in Hiriketiya Bay. However, we used the pre-order facility at Left4Days surf shop and were really pleased! We got a neat 6-foot Highline that was great for a full Sri Lanka trip. Everything was paid online before we arrived and the board was there waiting for us when we got to Hiriketiya.
Where to eat in Hiriketiya Bay
There are more and more places to eat in Hiriketiya Beach every month. It seems the surfers have brought business with them – and, of course, an appetite! Thankfully, there’s still a good mix of local Sri Lankan fare and the yogi’s medley of poke bowls knocking about. (We went back to Hiri in early 2022 and there’s been a HUGE boom in the number of joints to dine at – even with the pandemic bearing down). We’ve added our top choices to the list below…
Duni’s Hoppers ($-$$)
We walked past a small shack on the main road linking Dickwella to Hiri beach almost every day wondering exactly what it was. Finally, a friendly face poked out the door and told us they were opening the next day, serving traditional Sri Lankan hoppers and dahl. We were not disappointed. Just a few 100 LKR and you can score handmade coconut sambal and some of the best hoppers around. The coffee is also great! Here’s to hoping this one does well!
Bahia ($$$)
Bahia is the fancy new joint that stands right where our old fav of The Grove Lanka used to be. It’s pretty similar to its predecessor, but some changes have been made. The menu is still health-leaning breakkos and brunches (avo on toast, rosti etc). However, the dinner selection has a bit more of a touch of fine-dining to it. Thankfully, that flower-blooming, palm-sprouting garden is still 100% in tact!
Hiri Five 80 ($$$)
Hiri Five 80 feels a touch like a social club. It’s just so easy to meet and mingle with other surfers in this laid-back lounge. A pool table helps break the ice, as do the hand-mixed cocktails – mojito anyone? Food wise, you’ll find Mediterranean salads, stacked burgers, hand-cut fries, and smoothie bowls for breakfast. Sadly, the place looked closed (albeit temporarily) on our last visit in January 2022.
360 Seacoast ($$)
In a big, grassy garden just behind the main beach is this casual café chain. A menu of the usual staples – fried rice, Sri Lankan curry, roti – meets a few western dishes – we liked the veggie wrap! Chillout tunes are the backdrop. The beers are cold. The staff are friendly. Oh, and there are always little puppies running around and they look pretty happy/healthy. We can’t understand why hardly anyone goes here!
Malu Poke ($$)
Surfers gather for juices and healthy breakfasts in this charming little café-eatery on the west side of the beach. Facing straight onto the beginner-friendly Hiriketiya Bay surf spot, it’s a fine option for charging the batteries before a lesson. Expect fresh mango juices, morning poke bowls bursting with coconut and fruit, and a particularly nice Sri Lankan coffee. The only problem? It’s hardly EVER open these days!
Peter’s Place ($$)
The sole eatery on the west end of the bar, Peter’s Place is perfect for a light snack, some stir-fried kottu rotti, or a chilled lassi. The food is well made and the prices are average. The real draw is the outdoor seating. It’s got a front-row view of a the Hiriketiya Beach surf reef, so you can spot people dropping in as dine.
Garlic Café ($)
For cheap, tasty, authentic Sri Lankan eats, we say there’s only one game in town: Garlic Café. Under bamboo covers about five minutes’ walking from the beach, this one offers a bargain evening buffet. It’s all you can eat for 500 LKR (as of January 2022). Dals, Sri Lankan soya, pumpkin curry, poppadum, and rice is all part of the deal. A beer sets you back just 400 LKR.
Digital nomads in Hiriketiya Beach
Hit the mud track (or grab a tuk tuk) to the beachfront of Dickwella. That’s where you’ll find Verse Collective. It’s a chic and stylish space that combines skate ramps with co-working areas (and not ones you have to register and pay for, either!) The menus follow the East-London school of cooking – think sourdough toasts with beansprout slaw and smashed avo. Moreover, the internet is fast (at least it is for Sri Lanka). Interior tables have loads of plugs. We’d recommend coming early and trying for a spot under the fan – it can get hot. Notice the strikethrough? These guys have since started charging for WiFi access and even go as far as to block mobile connections. Not cool. It’s still a great spot to work but it’s 2,000 LKR for a session of 12 hours ($10).
We’d say The Salty Pelican is the better choice for remote workers in Hiriketiya these days. The folk there were super welcoming, the breakfasts and coffees are top notch, and the WiFi is fast. There are also some more shaded work areas in the lobby by the pool.
Things to do when you’re not surfing at Hiriketiya Beach
Hiriketiya Bay isn’t just for surfing, you know. Some people come here without even knowing there’s a beach break and a gnarly reef on the menu! So, if you want to drop the board for a spell, consider some of the other top activities this region has to offer:
Laze on Dickwella Beach
A mere 15 minutes walking around the headland from Hiriketiya Bay can whisk you to the wonderful stretch of sand that is Dickwella Beach. Almost totally deserted when we visited at the end of 2019, it’s fringed by stooping palms and the occasional quiet hotel. The water is crystal clear and the waves can be high. However, they aren’t really surfable.
Safari in the Yala National Park
Cheetahs, elephants, chital, and all manner of strange exotic birds awaits in the Yala National Park. This is one of the most iconic sanctuaries in all of Sri Lanka. You’ll need to get an organised tour to do this one on your day off from the Hiriketiya Bay surf breaks. Or, better yet, book somewhere nearer to the park so you can rise early and have a better chance of seeing the animals.
Enjoy Hiriketiya Beach
Don’t forget to enjoy what’s on offer on Hiriketiya Beach itself. It’s not only surfing that’s down on the shoreline. You can grab a spot under a coast pineapple and soak up the sun. A couple of chilled bars also coalesce by the water, offering sunset beers and dining with a view. It’s paradise.
This ultimate guide to Hiriketiya Beach surf is always being updated and changed. But, if you think we’ve missed something or gotten something wrong, we’d sure love you to get in touch. Alternatively, you can email or just drop a message in the comments below.
We might use affiliate links in this post. Basically, you click em’ and we get a little something from your booking or purchase. They help us keep offering more and more in-depth surf guides to awesome places all around the globe. So, thanks for that!
