The Ultimate Guide to Hiriketiya Beach (2023 Update)

Venture to a palm-fringed cove on the Sri Lankan south coast. Cue uber-fun Hiriketiya Beach. With a beach break and a reef to contend with, there’s something for all levels of surfer in this quintessential coast town.

Two breaks; one beach – that’s Hiriketiya Beach in a nutshell. Set in a stunning tropical cove on the far southern edge of Sri Lanka (just about as far south as it’s possible to go and still find a surfable wave), this laid-back little town is swiftly turning into a mecca for surfers.

It’s risen from obscurity to a popular pitstop on the Sri Lankan surf trail in the last couple of years. That’s brought bigger crowds to the line up (though it’s still not too bad), along with more shops, restaurants, and nice boutique hotels to boot.

One of the reasons for the popularity is the variety of surf that’s offered. As Hiriketiya Bay spreads along its 0.5-kilometre inlet, it goes from a heavy reef to a mellow beach break. The upshot? There’s something for a wide variety of surfers.

A sand-bottomed wave rolls into the surf rental shacks on the west side of the bay for novices. There are the peaks in the middle of the bay, which break over a deep rock reef and then allow for 50-meter rides towards the sand. And then there’s the fast, walling left-hander that whips in on the east end of Hiri – leave that to the intermediates and experts.

We returned to this spot in 2022 and found that things have changed A LOT. The breaks are still pumping but there’s been considerable development in Hiri town, not least of all with the roads being paved. We have mixed feelings about it all. We obviously want to share this stunning spot but they’re tearing down lush jungles to make way for five-star hotels as we write. Not good. That said, Hiriketiya Beach is still a more chilled and laid-back surf town than other Sri Lankan spots like Ahangama and Weligama further up the coast.

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What will I find in this guide to surfing in Hiriketiya Bay

Huddled inside a wide scythe of a bay on the far southern edge of Sri Lanka, Hiriketiya is roughly midway between the towns of Tangalle and Matara. That puts it off the usual surfing trail of the island, but still within easy reach of the main resorts. The nearest town is Dickwella (also spelled Dikwella). That’s relatively small but has all the necessary amenities – ATM, grocery shops, pharmacy. The nearest major city is Matara itself, around 14 miles to the west along the coast.

The trip from the airport (Colombo Airport/Bandaranaike International Airport) to Hiriketiya takes about 2.5 hours in a private transfer. They should cost around 12,000-15,000 LKR ($60-75) in total including surfboards. To organize a pick up, post in the South Sri Lanka Surf Community Facebook group or use Sri Lanka Car and Driver Hire.

Although it’s one of the farther-flung surf spots on the Sri Lankan south coast, it’s never usually a problem to get to Hiriketiya Bay. In fact, you can get a direct transfer from the airport in about three hours, and that’s something that’s easy to organize by messaging your hotel or surf camp.

• Transfer (taxi to Hiriketiya Beach): Most travelers will opt for a private transfer straight from the airport in Colombo. That’s particularly helpful if you’re coming in with a surfboard. (Bear in mind that Qatar Airways remains the surfer’s favourite – they allow boards to be checked as part of luggage allowance, and as an extra to your existing bags). You can use the groups mentioned above to search for a transfer or just ask your hotel. Alternatively, it’s possible to pre-arrange with Intui Travel or via Viator (it’s a standard $85 per couple there, so no haggling if you’re happy with the rate).
• Bus to Hiriketiya Beach: There are regular local buses that also run the route along the main roads of the south coast. Look for the ones heading to Dickwella – the nearest town to Hiriketiya Bay. They’re sure to be the cheapest choice (a couple of hundred rupees each way).
• Bus from Ella to Hiriketiya: Getting from Ella to Hiriketiya Bay is another popular way of coming to the south coast. We recently did that trip on a local bus and it cost a mere 250 LKR each! Granted, we didn’t have our surfboards with us and we stood for most of the journey, but it was an experience!
• Train to Hiriketiya: Trains might be more comfortable. Regular services run along the south-west coast of the island. They link Colombo with Matara, going through the handsome colonial city of Galle along the way. You can get off at Matara and grab a local tuk tuk straight to Hiriketiya Bay. Be sure to haggle.

Of course, all this depends on getting to Sri Lanka in the first place. That almost always involves a flight into the Bandaranaike International Airport in Colombo (CMB). It’s got plenty of excellent long-haul links to Europe on carriers like Sri Lankan and Qatar (who also happen to offer free carriage of surfboard), along with loads of other shorter connections to other destinations (some of them surf destinations) in Asia.

We use Skyscanner to check for flights all the time. It’s got a nifty calendar feature that lets you see the price of flights on days on and after your departure and compares loads of airlines in seconds.

This time last year we were worried about Hiriketiya turning into yet another mass tourism hotspot on the Sri Lanka southwest coast. A huge part of the jungle just back from the western end of the beach was being torn down to make way for a hotel that some cynical (rightly!) locals told us was the product of the right backhander to the right politician.

Since then, there’s been a major political upheaval in Sri Lanka. Make no bones about it – it was REALLY bad for the country. The whole place almost went bankrupt, although tourism did continue on and there wasn’t all that much difference on the ground for travelers and surfers.

The government troubles seem to have slowed development in Hiri just a little. Things are still going on, but we’d say there are still some years left to enjoy this as the heaven on Earth that it really is. The best you can do is to book hotels that are locally run and owned, and use the local guys on the beach for your surf lessons.

There are two surf spots in Hiriketiya Bay. It’s the fact that they’re so different – one challenging, the other easy-going – that makes the town such an attractive prospect. On small days, you can usually head out and ride the more powerful reef. When things are blown out elsewhere, there’s good shelter that helps keep things surfable closer to the beach.

The Hiriketiya beach break

Located on the western side of Hiriketiya Bay, the beach break is the most popular surf spot in town. It’s usually got a line up, but don’t be put off – there are plenty of waves to go around.

The sets that roll through here offer great variety for both longboarders and shortboarders. Some wall up for drop ins. Others are fat A-frames that glide neatly. Strictly speaking, the spot is a left-hander, but we’ve seen it go right, especially if you take off closer to the center of the bay.

The beach break starts roughly where the reef (see below) leaves off. However, names can be deceiving. If you choose a take-off point in the middle of Hiri, as most intermediates do, you will be surfing over rocks for 50 meter or so before you enter the sand-bottomed section of the bay.

Total beginners can stick to the second waves that plump up nicely right in front of the surf rental shacks on the western end of the beach. That’s usually where the surf schools go, and it can be a nice practice spot that’s got sand underfoot the whole way.

Bad points to the Hiriketiya Bay beach break include closeout sets that seem to roll through without warning, and crowds. Oh, and since a week-long flat spell on our last trip in 2022, some days when there are ZERO waves!

The Hiriketiya Bay reef point break

Roaring into the headland on the eastern point of Hiriketiya Bay is the town’s upper-intermediate/expert reef break. Known for its quick, peeling left-hander that starts on the rocks about 100 meters out from Peter’s Place bar, it’s got a fast take off section and ends up over some very shallow reefs that are infested with urchins (we saw about three people get spiked in just a week!).

If you can catch it, there’s a lovely ride that can take you from the headland all the way to the middle of the bay – some 150 meters at its best. The swells here can hold up to six foot. The wave begins quite sucky but soon mellows into a shoulder that’s medium-steep but rarely hollow.

• 8-Day Yoga and Surf at The Salty Pelican – You’ll see above that we’ve already picked out the Salty Pelican as one of the very best surf stays in Hiriketiya. Well…they do full-service surf and yoga packages too. This one includes five days of surf lessons and yoga each day, along with all breakfasts and dinners. The place is gorgeous for hanging in and it’s 400 meters’ walk from the waves.
• 11-Day Yoga and Surf at The Salty Pelican – This is essentially the same as the above (the Salty Pelican really is leading the way in our opinion right now), but covers 10 nights of accommodation and seven surf lessons, plus unlimited yoga. You’ll leave feeling like a Buddhist master and ripping up the sets!

You certainly won’t be short of awesome Hiriketiya Beach hotels. As of 2020/2021 season, there’s so much construction going on around town that an army of potential accommodations is likely to appear in the coming years. Some of the highest rated that are currently on the menu include:

Salt House ($$-$$$)

Ah, the lovely Salt House! The little extra you fork out for this one goes on some nice frills. Rooms here are done out with soothing whites and creams, organic materials, and four-poster beds. There’s one of the best garden pools around under the shade of the balcony. You get morning yoga programs. And you get to enjoy the on-site eatery, which offers healthy breakfasts and fresh fruit juices. The beach and surf breaks are a one-minute walk away.

Check availability

There are more and more places to eat in Hiriketiya Beach every month. It seems the surfers have brought business with them – and, of course, an appetite! Thankfully, there’s still a good mix of local Sri Lankan fare and the yogi’s medley of poke bowls knocking about. (We went back to Hiri in early 2022 and there’s been a HUGE boom in the number of joints to dine at – even with the pandemic bearing down). We’ve added our top choices to the list below…

Hit the mud track (or grab a tuk tuk) to the beachfront of Dickwella. That’s where you’ll find Verse Collective. It’s a chic and stylish space that combines skate ramps with co-working areas (and not ones you have to register and pay for, either!) The menus follow the East-London school of cooking – think sourdough toasts with beansprout slaw and smashed avo. Moreover, the internet is fast (at least it is for Sri Lanka).

Interior tables have loads of plugs. We’d recommend coming early and trying for a spot under the fan – it can get hot. Notice the strikethrough? These guys have since started charging for WiFi access and even go as far as to block mobile connections. Not cool. It’s still a great spot to work but it’s 2,000 LKR for a session of 12 hours ($10).

Overall, we’d say The Salty Pelican is the better choice for remote workers in Hiriketiya these days. The folk there were super welcoming, the breakfasts and coffees are top notch, and the WiFi is fast. There are also some more shaded work areas in the lobby by the pool.

Hiriketiya Bay isn’t just for surfing, you know. Some people come here without even knowing there’s a beach break and a gnarly reef on the menu! So, if you want to drop the board for a spell, consider some of the other top activities this region has to offer:

• Enjoy Hiriketiya Beach – Don’t forget to enjoy what’s on offer on Hiriketiya Beach itself. It’s not only surfing that’s down on the shoreline. You can grab a spot under a coast pineapple and soak up the sun. A couple of chilled bars also coalesce by the water, offering sunset beers and dining with a view. It’s paradise.
• Safari in the Yala National Park – Cheetahs, elephants, chital, and all manner of strange exotic birds awaits in the Yala National Park. This is one of the most iconic sanctuaries in all of Sri Lanka. You’ll need to get an organised tour to do this one on your day off from the Hiriketiya Bay surf breaks. Or, better yet, book somewhere nearer to the park so you can rise early and have a better chance of seeing the animals. We like this planned guide, which includes the game drives and a pickup in the Tangalle area (Hiri included).
• Laze on Dickwella Beach – A mere 15 minutes walking around the headland from Hiriketiya Bay can whisk you to the wonderful stretch of sand that is Dickwella Beach. Almost totally deserted when we visited at the end of 2019, it’s fringed by stooping palms and the occasional quiet hotel. The water is crystal clear and the waves can be high. However, they aren’t really surfable.