Cold Hawaii, Denmark – Scandinavia’s Surfing Mecca
Cold Hawaii is the nickname for the town of Klitmøller and the 50km run of wild North Sea shoreline that surrounds it. It’s now the most famous surf town in Denmark and home to the most consistent and highest quality breaks in the region.
We say that, but should caveat: DO NOT expect Waikiki beach or the North Shore. The moniker earned is a relative one. If Klitmøller can rival Hawaii then I’ll paddle out in a 1mm shortie this December. That’s not happening.
The point is that this Cold Hawaii is the best surfing in Denmark, and it really can be pretty fantastic on its day.
Locals say there’s something like 20 named breaks between the jetties of Hanstholm in the north and the wide, long beaches of Agger in the south.
There’s quite the surprising mix of spots to surf between the two, from cobblestone reefs with big frothing rights to breakwaters with wedges to open sands with pounding North Sea shorebreaks. Something for all levels, all surfers, and…plenty of room.
If we had to identify one thing about Cold Hawaii, it would be the charm of Klitmøller and the region. This is a land of undulating dunes clad in sea oats, with thatched-roof coast cottages tucked between them and red-painted houses that host pancake shops and coffee joints.
The last few years have seen an influx of international folks and creatives. Klitmøller is now a bit of an artsy hub, fed by a stream of traveling surfers and surfing locals. You’ll find cool galleries, great places to eat, and top-class stays just behind the dunes within walking distance to Denmark’s best surf beaches.
If you’re into surfing in Denmark, you simply must come here.
We might use affiliate links in this post. Basically, you click em’ and we get a little something from your booking or purchase. They help us keep offering more and more in-depth surf guides to awesome places all around the globe. So, thanks for that!
>>This guide is just one part of our complete guide to surfing in Denmark
Cold Hawaii, Denmark at a glance
The good…
- Surf spots for all levels
- It’s a cool town – galleries, cafes, great B&Bs
- Great vibes. Everyone’s happy
The bad…
- Not highly consistent
- Relies a lot on messy windswell
What’s in this guide to Cold Hawaii?
Where is Cold Hawaii, Denmark?
Cold Hawaii spans the Thy region of Northern Denmark. It strings along the western edge of the Jutland Peninsula, which has the whole North Sea opening to its western side.
The surf zone is anchored on the town of Klitmøller, which is roughly two thirds of the way between its northern extremity (at Hanstholm) and it’s southern extremity (at Agger).
Getting here isn’t too hard but will require a bit of dedication.
Your best bet is to fly into Aalborg Airport and then rent a car. It’s about 1.5 hours’ drive from there. It’s also possible to jet into Aarhus or Billund and drive up, though that means longer on the road.
Our input would be this: Have a car and be ready to drive north and south of the main Klitmøller Strand, along the whole length of Cold Hawaii.
Cold Hawaii surf spots
In all honesty, the name Cold Hawaii is well OTT.
It’s marketing and it kinda’ falls flat on its face when you see it: Little more than a bend in the Klitmøller Strand as the coast goes from running south-north to west-east.
Right at the point where the shoreline angles around there’s a really exposed section of barnacle-encrusted reef that hoovers up all the windswell in the North Sea and gets really fun when there’s a N-NW pulse through the gap towards the Atlantic.
There are times when the waves can be wonderful. It’s just that comparisons to Oahu et al are hard-earned.
On winter days when the wind is tame and easterly, there can be glass, firing off from the reef in nice, neat lines. Usually best for longboarders and something with extra volume.
Most days, you’ll be looking at breezy beach breaks that aren’t the cleanest but are punchy and very fun for learners. It’s also regular for the lineup to switch into kiteboarders and windsurfers as the breezes get up, which they regularly do.
South of town, Bunkers can throw out triangle peelers. North of town, Udsigtspunkt has some shelter from W wind and offers bumpy lefts that can stay clean when the rest of the coast is blown out.
Let’s take each break in the region spot by spot…
Hanstholm (Udsigtspunkt)
Udsigtspunkt is the name of a reef that sits on the eastern side of the Hanstholm harbour.
The shape of the coast and the nearby breakwaters offer good protection from oncoming W winds, which means this spots can glass up nicely with NW groundswells in the winter, when it usually gives off bowly right handers that aren’t long but are some of the better-quality walls around.
This is the furthest north spot of the Cold Hawaii strip – about 15 minutes’ drive out of Klitmøller.
Fisherman’s Corner
Swells refract into the top end of the Hanstholm Strand and narrow into this fast shorebreak that reminds us of one of those dredging Portuguese pounders on the beachfront.
It’s hard to make anything work because it’s so quick and hollows out so fast, plus you need size – and we mean like 8 foot+ – for there to be anything workable at all. Bodyboarders like getting whacked around on it but the shallow entry means we probably wouldn’t risk our favorite shortie.
Krovej
The area of Krovej is very chilled and calm, with lovely coast cottages hiding over the dunes from a run of beach that angles nicely southwest to northeast, getting good hits of wind and groundswell whenever it comes through.
The upshot? This is one of the most consistent spots in Cold Hawaii, though it suffers from lots of exposure and can often be a mushy mess. It’s all beach break with some cobbles underfoot.
Watch out for shifty peaks and a rip, which can be very stealthy but strong.
Point Perfect
You’ll have noticed by now that the Danes have a penchant for hyperbolic spot naming. So it is with Point Perfect, which is decent but hardly godly. If it was perfect, it wouldn’t be quite so fickle as this, surely?
Heavy 5-foot+ swells will nail it down. Good W in the direction is perfect, with a offshore S wind. Then, you can score long left rides over the rocks out back. There’s also a protected beach break section that gives mini ankle slappers, often used by the surf schools.
Inside Reef
Inside Reef is the best wave in the town of Klitmøller. It needs bigger, longer-period swells to work, so anything that sneaks through from the Atlantic and meets a cold SE wind will tend to be perfect – that’s usually a December/January combo.
When it’s on, it’s a peeling left point break that reminds us of something out of NZ, with sections that can hollow out and then fatten alternating from the edge of a reef all the way into the beach.
It’s quite challenging most days and demands skill in threading together tighter turns.
Klitmøller Reef
Right in front of the heart of Klitmøller town on the left hand side is a little dash of rock reef where there’s almost always a wave.
It’s generally mellow and mushy, great for all levels and pretty forgiving, offering walls of up to 50m to trim and turn on. The issue is getting out past the mussel-infested rocks to enter the lineup. And those big winter storm days when the whole thing turns into a Jacuzzi.
Often used by local surf schools and good fun, but we’d surf it with someone first so you know where to paddle and sit.
Bunkers
The coast south of town is a land of long beaches peppered with aging WWII bunkers. Hence the name for this spot, which is now probably one of the best known in the whole of Scandinavia.
We can see why…it’s west facing, which means a good consistency, and forms as a pitching A-frame.
The right is long and best for cruisy rides. The left is semi hollow. It’s reef underfoot but reminds us of something out of Tamarindo on a pushing tide, except in icy water – think lippy and punchy. Usually busy because it’s so popular.
The ONLY place in Cold Hawaii where you might catch some localism we’d say.
Bøgsted Rende
The main parking point to the beach that runs between Bunkers and Vorupør is at Bøgsted Rende. It’s beautiful here, as the dunes open to reveal long runs of golden sand whipped by dancing tussock grasses.
The waves change yearly as the banks shift. Come on a high or pushing tide and it can be great, with bowly wedges breaking up and down the shore. Klitmøller locals are starting to make the drive here more and more to avoid the growing crowds. Takes about 10 minutes from the town.
Underdogs
Nice, easy going beach breaks with high dunes to protected them from too much south in the wind direction just north of Vorupør town.
It’s a bit of a walk to get here but can be worth it cos’ you’ll usually be alone and the waves can be fun, simple, cruisy.
Vorupør
Vorupør has two piers, both with waves.
Small Pier is on the inside of the bay and spits out nice chest-high lefts when you get to around five foot in the swell. They can be a bit messy and shifty but are generally very fun.
The Big Pier has been churned to shit by dredgers and sand coming out of the river, so it’s super unpredictable as of the end of 2024.
Stenbjerg
The quaint coast village of Stenbjerg will put you right in the heart of the Thy National Park. It’s a great setting for surf, with wild dune scapes running north and south and inland for as far as the eye can see.
The cottages here are also old as old can be – think crooked stone boltholes painted white and topped with thatch. About 20 minutes’ drive from Klitmøller it’s got some of the most unpredictable sandbanks in the whole region. Storms in the winter churn them up and move them almost daily.
We’ve been and seen awesome wedges with mini slab barrels and then gone the next day with similar swell conditions to find it a mess fest.
Agger
The southern terminus of Cold Hawaii is the town of Agger. The more westerly angle of the shore means there’s extra reliance on North Sea windswell, so the spots here are pretty much autumn through to spring only.
The main option is the Big Pier, which isn’t actually in the town but rather on the estuary to the south of it, throwing out big barreling lefts with extra S wind protection.
There are smaller piers and breakwaters nearer the center that can all work and are a magnet for Denmark’s shortboard performance surfers when they’re on.
Get insured. [ad]
I use SafetyWing. They’ve got two plans: Essential and Complete. Surfing is included as standard in both.
Things I like:
- Buy while you’re abroad. No penalties if you’re already traveling.
- Flexible packages. You can either get it as a subscription, so it rolls on until you cancel, or pay for certain dates.
- Surfing is included as standard in the Essential plan. No add-ons needed.
Where to stay when surfing in Cold Hawaii?
Surf stays in Cold Hawaii can be super cool.
We’re talking edgy Scandi B&Bs near the beaches and cozy Danish fishing cottages between the dunes.
There are now a lot more options than there used to be, and even a few proper surf-style camps/eco hotels, though it’s still largely self-catering beach cottages, which is fine, esp that they let you save money on eating out.
- Klitmøller Hotel – The Klitmøller Hotel is a pretty kitschy spot that has the feel of a razzed-up sailor’s pub come B&B. It’s right on the seafront, right by the main surf breaks, and has a great on-site restaurant.
- Noah’s Ark Homestay – There are shared-bathroom rooms in this very cool surf house. It looks like something out of 1960s California but the vibe is ultra-friendly. Surfers meet, mingle, and eat together, all within walking distance of the main breaks.
- Lovely Home In Thisted With House A Panoramic View – The pick for families who want a proper home away from home, this self-catering coast mansion has a pool, a sauna, a big deck, and five full bedrooms. It’s ideally located for access to the beach breaks and breakwater surf spots to the south of Klitmøller.
When to surf in Cold Hawaii?
The main surf season in Cold Hawaii runs from around the start of October to the end of March. The winter months of December and January are peak, though, since they see the most frequent windswell and groundswell conditions coming through.
Summers are fun in this region but coming between May and August runs the risk of things going flat and staying flat – potentially for weeks on end. That’s not to say there aren’t swells in the summer. There can be, but usually short-fetch windswell that builds up with low pressures moving off the UK.
The best conditions in Klitmøller and Cold Hawaii come in the winter because the key is to wait for any long-period groundswell to sneak through the gap between northern Scotland and Norway. It will push all the way through the Norwegian Sea and into the North Sea, gathering power as it goes. That really only happens in winter, so head over December or Jan for the best of the sets.
We might use affiliate links in this post. Basically, you click em’ and we get a little something from your booking or purchase. They help us keep offering more and more in-depth surf guides to awesome places all around the globe. So, thanks for that!
