Goa Surfing & Travel Guide – ALL Beaches, Spots, Seasons
The surf scene in Goa – like the surfing in the rest of India – still feels rather nascent. But, of all the regions that do have waves in this huge subcontinent of a country, this one’s probably top of the list (or it’s a close second to Karnataka)
From north to south, Goa is 100km of perfectly west- or south-west facing beaches. To give you an idea of just how enticing that should sound to surfers, that’s roughly the same orientation on the Indian Ocean as the south-west side of Sri Lanka and the edge of Sumatra in Indo.
The downside is that Goa picks up nowhere near the same action as those other spots. In the absence of big groundswell channels from the Southern Ocean and any coastal trenches, you’re playing a waiting game. You need pulses to push up directly south, or SW swells strong enough to make it past the Maldives and up onto the Indian coast.
When they do come – usually around once a week in the dry season – they can be downright fun. You’ll get sets of three to five foot clean waves that are perfecto for learners and beginners and longboarders. It’s hotdogging, easy-mode surf that’s downright fun. Who could complain?
This guide takes a look at the best surf spots in the region. It also has some tips on the best surf camps that Goa has to offer – some of which are a foothold for getting to some of the very best surfing in India as a whole…
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This guide is just one part of our complete guide to surfing in India
Goa surfing at a glance
The good…
- Mellow and easy-going breaks for beginners
- Warm water
- Great vibes – this is Goa, after all
The bad…
- The breaks lack quality (read: size) for serious surfers
- Lack of surfing infrastructure, shops, or camps
Where is Goa?
Goa is the smallest state in India. It sits almost exactly midway between Mumbai and Kochi, right on the edge of the Indian Ocean.
It’s western shoreline runs from the border with Maharashtra all the way to the border with Karnataka (another of the top surf areas in India). Inland, you get the rises of the Western Ghats mountains, which offer plenty of adventure when the surf is low.
How to get to Goa?
The good news is that Goa is one of the most accessible states in India. That’s largely down to the HUGE number of sun seekers and holidaymakers that come here each year – it’s the most popular part of the country.
Here’s a brief look at the two most popular ways to travel in…
- Fly: Goa International Airport, also known as Dabolim Airport, is the main airport serving the state of Goa. It’s located on a headland in the middle of the state, around 1.5 hours’ transfer from the surf hotspot of Arambol in the north.
- Train: Travel by train is a real experience in India. That’s how we arrived on our last trip to Goa. Most of the long-distance services from Kochi come into Madgaon Junction. From there, it’s nearly two hours to north Goa and around an hour to south Goa. From Mumbai, there are daily trains that go to Thivim, which is closer to the main surf areas – around 50 minutes in a taxi.
Surf spots in Goa
Apart from a few rivermouths that can hold up well on larger monsoon days, Goa is really all about mellow beach breaks, all of which hit thier stride in the dry season on small-to-mid swells. This is beginner territory, and a logger mecca.
We think it’s wise to split the region into north and south because they have quite different characters. Generally, the north is better for surfing and it’s livelier to boot, with the main nightlife centers. The south has emptier waves and is more chilled, more yoga-friendly, that sort of thing.
Here’s a look at the most popular places to paddle out…
Surf spots in north Goa
North Goa is the area to focus on if you’re serious about doing as much surfing as you can. For us, there are three beaches there that really stand out from the crowd: Arambol, Ashwem, and Mandrem.
All are decent places to base yourself; each has a vibe and atmosphere of its own. I should reiterate, though – there’s a very good chance you will not have waves on any of the beaches listed below. They can be really fickle spots. You come to Goa to relax and MAYBEEE surf if some comes through, not the other way around.
Arambol Beach
Arambol Beach has arguably the best surf in the north of Goa. It’s a beach break that can handle anything up to 7 foot.
Anything bigger than that will just close out. But in the 2-5 foot range, as it often is, the sets here turn into nice A-frames. The rights tend to hold up better and can even get hollow. You’re talking about ducking deep to get pitted but it’s good fun. The lefts are shorter and more crumbly; great for slow pop up practice and the occasional longboard trim.
Relies on the sandbanks that can sometimes be fickle, but don’t worry the town is a good laugh when the surf’s not on – it’s one of the main party hubs of Goa, with oodles of live music places, yoga studios and bars. It’s the sort of place where you’ll be in the company of Russian billionaires and dreadlocked uni dropouts from England. Kinda fun for a few days, even without the surf.
Choose Wala Surf for lessons – they are one of the OG surf schools in the region and come very highly rated.
Where to stay? Geranium Haven is one of the hottest new hotels in town. It’s more upmarket than a lot of the hostels in this hippy hub but still shouldn’t set you back more than $75/night. For real budget and real Arambol vibes, pick the SpiritHouse Hostel or Mitra Hostel.
Mandrem Beach
Mandrem is probably the quietest beach in North Goa. It’s nowhere near as developed as ones to the north and south of it, simply becuase it’s now an officially designated turtle sanctuary, which means no shacks are allowed on the beachfront itself.
The upshot? This is a great place to come if you like to surf alone. There’s only one or two schools that come here regularly and the water is never as busy as it is in, say, Arambol, if there’s swell about.
The waves are a continuation of the Goa theme: Knee-high cruisers that break over a shallow sandbank. They are dead-on for learners but you’ll need some extra size so rent a foamy or go with the local surf school.
Where to stay? Vaayu Kula is our all-time top surf stay in Goa. The whole thing has a beautifully curated design that mingles touches of South Asia, Morocco and Bali, laced together with lush tropical gardens. Most of all, there’s a very good in-house surf school that offers guided lessons and rentals.
Ashwem Beach
Ashwem is often frequented by kitesurfers during the windier monsoon, but there’s a growing number of surfers during the dry season. That’s because the beach is actually one of the most consistent in the state, given that it gets some of the best exposure to the Indian Ocean swells.
It’s pure beginner stuff, and can be fantastic if you’re coming into surfing for the first time. The whole west-facing bay can offer up nice long lines that break slowy and crumble well. When on the larger side, they can be neat little wedges that entertain performance boarders. Tends to be better on a mid pushing tide and can’t really hold anything over six foot.
Expect to get around one or two days a week of decent surf – that’s what we managed on our last trip here in 2021, which was during the peak of the dry season. Thankfully, Ashwem is super nice without and waves, offering a chilled vibe that’s a bit less hectic than Baga and Arambol; more like a Thai beach town if you ask us.
Jack’s Surf School is right on the sand here. It’s one of the few around that has an ISA-qualified coach at hand.
Where to stay? The Thalassa Beach Boutique Resort is genuinely lovely. It’s a big hotel, so not to everyone’s taste, but you can’t argue with that beachfront location and the boho-boutique style of the rooms.
Baga
Baga Beach is basically the northern end of Calungute and it’s known as the holiday haven of northern Goa.
The whole place is filled with travelers both international and domestic in the peak dry season, so don’t expect to be in the water alone. On the plus side, all that attention means there’s great nightlife and loads of hotels. Just don’t come expecting a deserted tropical paradise (Mandrem or Patnem are better for that!).
Surf wise, don’t expect much. The shoreline drops off more steeply here than on neighboring beaches, which means the swell sucks up and dumps right on the sand. There is one spot that works: A right that comes off the Baga River on the north side of the beach, but there can be rips and boats going through there.
Calungute
Similar to Baga, Calungute is a small-wave break but it’s super, super dumpy. It’s possible to find little wedges of waves on a full high tide right at the south end of the bay but, to be frank, you’ll probably be chasing ghosts.
Your best bet is to contact one of the surf schools in Ashwem and travel up there to surf on the day of your trip that has the best swell.
Surfing in south Goa
South Goa probably isn’t the best place to be based if all you want to do is surf. The beaches here don’t hold swell as well as Arambol or Ashwem. There are some spots, and the best of the bunch is definitely Agonda, which also happens to be seriously beautiful.
Betalbatim
Betalbatim beach merges with Arossim Beach (which is slightly to the north) to create a large sweep of sand that sometimes works with onshore westerly swells. It’s close to the town of Vasco da Gama, so pretty accessible.
It’s just the break that lets it down, because the spot is all mush, even when it’s at its best.
Varca
Varca Beach is pretty stunning. It’s more Caribbean than Indian, offering white-tinged sands and a very shallow sand ledge before the open Indian Ocean.
That actually cuts down the wave size. It’s sometimes a rare longboarder spot but don’t get your hopes up for anything crazy. Mostly little, nippy shorebreaks that are good for foamies to practice.
Agonda
Agonda Beach is probably the most consistent spot for surfing in South Goa. It runs best on 4-5 foot with light easterly winds. You’re talking punchy little peaks that come in across the whole length of the beach.
They’re usually more stronger at the north end of the bay before the coast turns inwards and narrows. Of course, most of the time, the swell never hits 5 foot or anything near it, so high-volume boards are musts here – as is a good attitude (Agonda has to be one of the happiest places we’ve ever surfed!)
In addition to the surf, you’ve got a great array of curry houses and little beach shacks to pick from, so there’s no getting bored on the inevitable Goa flat day.
Aloha Surf India offer lessons here. They’re run by an ISA-qualified coach with over 25 years experience.
Where to stay? Goa Cottages Agonda are very nice indeed. They hide under the causaranias and palms behind the beach and have a sort of Robinson Crusoe-chic feel to them.
Palolem
Palolem is something of a chilled hippy enclave. It does have waves, but we’d say beware of planning your whole surf trip around this one. It’s a very fickle wave that rarely peaks above chest height outside the monsoon.
When it does, it’s dumpy and mainly whitewash. Good fun for foamers at the golden hour, when some bodyboarding goes down a storm. Rentals for those are available right on the beachfront.
Where to stay when surfing in Goa?
Goa certainly has no shortage of seriously excellent hotels. We’ve chosen a few of the top ones close to the best surf beaches of North Goa, assuming that’s the area you’ll want to be based since it’s a lot more consistent than the south.
- Vaayu Kula – A superb hotel on the dunes above Mandrem Beach, offering rooms that are designed like a stylo Balinese bungalow, some with stunning sea views. They stand out for us because they have an in-house surf school that can help you plan all your outings with expert insights into the local swell conditions and spots. It’s the perfect place to book if it fits your budget.
- Mitra Hostel – Those looking for the full-on Goa hippy vibe will find it going strong here. A vibrant place where it should be easy to meet and mingle with other travelers, it’s every inch the off-beat, boho bargain stay.
- GoYm Resort – Location is everything here. You’ll be staying right next door to Arambol’s main surf school, plum on the beachfront. Rooms are simple yet cozy and well-kept and rates are like $30 a night.
When to surf in Goa?
The dry season or the months immediately either side of it is the peak time to surf in Goa. That runs from December to April and sees the best weather of the year. The key is fewer storms in the Indian Ocean, which keeps the water clean and heightens the chance that you’ll get those small, glassy sets that Goa is known for.
- Dry season (November to March) – The dry season does exactly what it says on the tin – it’s dry! More than that, it sees the Indian Ocean currents calm all around this part of South Asia. It’s normal to have days and even weeks of totally flat seas. Still, it’s probably the peak time because it’s the only time you can find decently clean sets in Goa.
- Monsoon (May-August) – The Monsoon definitely brings MORE swell, but it’s not that great. It’s often accompanied by storms and lots of run off from inland rivers, so things are messy. There are good days in the mix here, but it will be harder to find something cleaner than in the dry season.
The shoulder season months of October and April might just be the sweet spot here. The weather will be a bit of a risk, but there’s likely to be some extra swell coming through too.
Things to do when you’re not surfing in Goa
Goa is a gorgeous place to holiday, no matter if you’re surfing or not. We’ve had fun here simply lazing around but there’s also adventure to be had. We’d 100% reccomend that you make sure you tick off the following list…
- Patnem and Palolem beaches – We much preferred the far south of Goa to the more party-mad north. Sadly, the north has the best surf. So, head down to Patnem and Palolem when you’re done with the waves and you’ll find golden arches of sand with yoga studios and salt-washed beach shacks that sit just back from the tide.
- Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary – Goa might be India’s smallest state but it still manages to pack in some pretty sublime nature. If it’s the monsoon (the top surf time), you’re also treated to the best wildlife viewing conditions. For that, do a safari to the Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary. It’s got a treetop viewing platform where you can look for lorises and pit vipers and other amazing creatures!
- Venture inland – This full-day tour of the inland sights of Goa is pretty amazing. You’ll see the historic sights of Panjim city (Old Goa) but also venture to the incredible Dudhsagar Falls before embarking on a Jeep safari through the Mollem National Park, where there are leopards and even Bengal tigers!
- A walking tour of Old Goa – Take this walking tour of Old Goa to learn all about the Portguese history of the area and see some of the most fascinating ruins on this side of India.
We might use affiliate links in this post. Basically, you click em’ and we get a little something from your booking or purchase. They help us keep offering more and more in-depth surf guides to awesome places all around the globe. So, thanks for that!
