The Kovalam surf is now vying for the position of the best in Kerala with Varkala. It’s got points and beach breaks but might lack consistency.
An introduction to Kovalam surf
Kovalam surf is really the only place on the Keralan coast that can match the upcoming surf haven of Varkala. Still not quite receiving the same attention as its brother to the north, this one is largely the province of local surf schools playing their trade with holidaying Indians out of the big city. The surf is very fickle, with beach breaks that froth one day and die to nan bread flatness the next. But there are some points mixed in here that can show quality, offering up some of the hollower rides on the subcontinent.
What’s undeniably beguiling is the vibe. Kovalam is chilled and charming. Its beaches slope down from steep cliffs threaded by big palms onto crescent bays. There are lovely hotels and some particularly welcoming surf outfitters that are fantastic for showing total learners the ropes. We’d sum it up like this: Don’t come here specifically for the surfing. Come for the sun, the coconuts, and the hotels and do some surfing on the side.
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This guide is just one part of our complete guide to surfing in India
Kovalam surf at a glance
The good…
The bad…
What’s in this guide to Kovalam surf?
Where is Kovalam?
Kovalam has risen to become the main beach resort for the city of Thiruvananthapuram (usually called just Trivandrum – you can see why, right?). That’s just 25 minutes’ drive up the coast road to the north and it supplies a steady stream of domestic travelers and would-be surfers to the beaches. More generally, Kovalam is situated in the far south of the state of Kerala, not far from the border with Tamil Nadu.
A guide to the Kovalam surf spots
Varkala
Varkala is the only other place in Kerala that could possibly rival Kovalam when it comes to waves. It’s probably – at least in our humble opinion – the superior one. The beaches of Kappil and Edava are the highlights. They can offer up nice point breaks that come off the seawalls and do well with big-period swells. It’s a genuine mecca for longboarders looking for uncrowded line ups.
We’ve got a complete guide to surfing in Varkala – check it out now
Grove Beach
This sandy little stretch is one of the most central in the town. It’s not much for surfers and is often clogged up with fishing skiffs that get left there all day after the morning session. There is a small shorebreak that can be okay if you’ve bought the foamy and just want to body ride. The south end of the bay can also give a left hander on bigger swell but it’s not really that frequently ridden and the consistency is dire.
Kovalam Beach
Kovalam Beach is the jewel in the crown of the whole resort area. It’s backed by big hotels that halo the main street just behind and has glinting sands. The main wave is the south end point break that forms on the outside of the Edakkallu Rock Garden. It plays much like a Sri Lankan point but doesn’t have the reef on the inside to help hold its shape and needs bigger SW monsoon swells to get working properly. There’s also a small breaker in the middle of the bay that’s sometimes used by the local surf schools.
Hawa Beach
Welcome to the main spot on the Kovalam surf line up. Hawa Beach benefits from an ever-so-slight southwesterly orientation. That means it can hoover up more of the dominant SW swells that thunder up from the depths of the Indian Ocean when its winter in the roaring 40s. When the periods lengthen enough, the headland on the far southern end of Hawa Beach will offer long and peeling walls of lefts that can even hollow out.
There’s a similar mirror break at the northern end of the bay that works better on dry season swells and for regular riders. Basically, this is the spot to know about if you’re looking to hunt waves in this corner of Kerala.
Poovar
There can be little whitecaps and mush for the beginner surfers out there down the long run of sand that stretches all the way from Kovalam to Poovar. It’s notoriously unreliable, pretty soft, and remote, though. You probably don’t need to stray this far from Hawa.
Where to stay when surfing in Kovalam?
Kovalam is now one of the go-to beach escapes of the south Keralan coast. The upshot? There’s not going to be a shortage of places to stay, not matter if you’re after a budget homestay or a lux resort overlooking the Indian Ocean. These would be our picks for surfers…
Johny’s Beach House
Johny’s Beach House is a blast from the past; a homage to the time that Kovalam was still a hippy beach town on an untouched shoreline. This bamboo-built, palm-thatched cabana would look right at home in Goa and that’s why we love it. It’s simple, a bit kitschy, but clean and uber-welcoming. You also get walking access to Hawa Beach (the best Kovalam surf spot of all) and free yoga in the mornings.
The Raviz Kovalam
The Raviz Kovalam is the choice if you’re after a bit of pampering and high luxury. It’s a five-star hotel (and those don’t carry the same price tag in India as in Europe, you know?) with a pool that juts out across the northern beaches, so you can check the surf conditions while you swim. Rooms are modern and spacious and the breakfast spread is top quality.
The Ayur Villa
Peace and quiet abounds at the Ayur Villa. Large and spacious, the pad oozes local character, with its steep-gabled monsoon roofs and wood-rimmed interiors. It’s grand, with a pool in the garden and balconies that survey the spreading scythe of sand on Hawa Beach. There’s free Wi-Fi, a shared lounge, and even on-site massage services.
Step-by-step guide to planning your Kovalam surf trip right now
Step one: Book flights to the Kovalam surf…Lately, we like Omio for searching flights. It’s a nice interface and has lots of airline options. We also use Skyscanner because that sometimes offers deals that even beat going direct to the carrier!
Step two: Book your surf camp Book Surf Camps is the numero uno online booking platform for fully-fledged surf-stay packages on the internet right now. Then there’s Booking.com. That has consistently unbeatable rates for hotels and a nifty map feature that lets you check EXACTLY how close your hotel is to a surf break.
Step three: Get insuranceThis is kinda’ important. Not just for surf trips but for any trips. SafetyWing is great for nomad travelers. They offer rolling contracts that cover amateur surfing.
Step four (optional): Rent a car If you’re surf camping then you might not need wheels. If you’re not then we’ll just say this: We’ve never been on a surf trip that wasn’t improved by having our own car. Use RentalCars – they’re the best.
Step five: Enjoy!
For paying for stuff when you’re traveling – Get a Wise borderless card/account. They charge NOTHING for POS payments in any country and have some of the best FX rates around in our humble opinion.
When to surf in Kovalam?
It’s tempting to say you should wait for the monsoon to hit the Kovalam surf. It’s no secret that it brings the stronger swells and the most consistent conditions. However, remembering that this is a beach resort and we said come here for the chill factor with surf on the side, it might be better to time a visit for the shoulder seasons of April and September. The rains are winding down then so there’s a chance you’ll be able to sunbathe and swim. However, there are still decent SW pulses that can break up the skunking and offer those neat peelers off the Hawa point.
We might use affiliate links in this post. Basically, you click em’ and we get a little something from your booking or purchase. They help us keep offering more and more in-depth surf guides to awesome places all around the globe. So, thanks for that!
