La Union Surf Guide – Beginner Haven of The Philippines
La Union is really all about San Juan, one of the top surf destinations on the whole of Luzon Island. It’s great for all levels and is under four hours’ drive from Manila, making it accessible from the Philippine capital.
West of Baguio and only a couple of hours’ drive north from the sprawl of Metro Manila, the region of La Union has been dubbed the Surfing Capital of the North – even by the official Philippine tourist board, we think, though we still prefer the colloquial nickname: Elyu. Whatever you call it, it’s got the closest waves to the big city and they aren’t all that bad.
The mainstay draw is San Juan, which shares three breaks that cater to different levels, including a beachie for learners and a point break on the reef for better surfers. Beyond that, you’re looking at pretty untrodden surf territory where you’ll have to go out on a whim to find the next bay or sandbar and will probably have it to yourself.
One thing we will say: Because this is a popular beach escape for both sun seekers and surfers, there are plenty of decent hotels and lots of places to eat. It promises to be one of the easiest surf outings to plan from Manila.
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This guide is just one part of our complete guide to surfing Philippines
La Union surf at a glance
The good…
- One of the best beginner waves in the Philippines
- Close to Manila
- Great right-hand point breaks
The bad…
- Gets busy because it’s close to the capital
- Can be sloppy when it’s windy
Where is La Union?
The La Union surf is anchored on the town of San Juan, which sits in the northern half of the region, some 1.5 hours’ drive from Baguio. Getting in from Manila takes about four hours in all, using the main E1 expressway. The whole region of La Union faces the South China Sea to the west and ends at the estuary of the Amburayan River to the north.
Officially, it’s a part of the Ilocos region. That’s very long and thin, running from the Lingayen Gulf in the south all the way to the very northern tip of Luzon itself. Thankfully, you don’t have to travel so far up to get to the surf – San Juan/La Union is on the coast about a quarter of the way through the province.
How to get to La Union?
The vast majority of people get to La Union straight from Manila. Actually, the closeness of the capital is one of the reasons there’s been so much buzz about this surf town in the last few years. You can go from traffic-choked streets to surf breaks in 5-7 hours, depending on how you travel. Here are your options…
- Bus – The option that most people will go for. There are now something in the regoin of 20 buses per day from Manila to La Union. The earliest leave at 9am and the latest leave at 11.30pm. All are run by the Partas Transportation Company. They have big coach buses with aircon and are generally pretty punctual and comfy. It’s $12-ish for the whole trip. Book online using 12GoAsia to comfirm your seat right away – or use the search below to see all bus options. Departure stations are either Cubao in Quezon City or Pasay Bus Terminal.
- Drive – If you’ve got the guts to rent and drive in the Philippines then getting your own car is a great option. The first reason we say that is cos it’s quicker than the bus (it takes around five hours to drive yourself from Manila airport but up to eight). You also get more freedom to explore – there are amazing rice paddies, highland villages, and waterfalls on the route from Manila. Roads in the city are crazy but things get better as you venture into the Luzon countryside. We use DiscoverCars to book hires in Asia, Eureope, and pretty much everywhere else now.
Where to surf in La Union?
La Union surf is really all about one town: San Juan.
The breaks listed here are essentailly ALL there, spreading up the reef points to the north but also in the middle of the resort itself on the main beach.
Urbiztondo/The Beach Break
People often get confused and rock up to San Juan Beach with their surfboard in hand. That’s not actually where the main beginner break is in the town. It’s a touch to the south, in a much smaller cove that’s hugged by two hotel-topped headlands: Urbiztondo Beach.
The waves here are just what the doctor ordered for starters in the sport. Small but punchy, they work virtually all year round and are perfect for schools and teachers to ply their trade on.
It’s not for nothing that this is considered one of the top places for learning to surf in Asia!
Monaliza Point
A fantastic surf camp sits just on the rocks by Monaliza Point. It’s a top place to bed down if you’re a more experienced surfer because it means access to what’s certainly the best break in the town.
We’re talking a peeling right-hand point that behaves a touch like the inside section of Bells when the big October-January swells push through the channel, though any real Bells aficionados will surely scoff at the very flattering (for Elyu) comparison).
Sets will line up and rip right off a shallow reef. When it’s smaller this is a prime logger wave that can offer rides of up to 100m. Bigger days call for the shorty and can even get hollow.
Carrile Point
Like Mona’s before it, Carrile Point is another right hander that forms on the reef shelf that pokes out from this corner of Luzon island.
It’s a touch harder than it’s compadre, though, forming on a cluster of submerged rocks at high tide to give a wedge of a wave that sucks up and walls right in front of your nose.
You need to do a lot of pumping to keep speed and always rearrange to stick in the pocket on the best days, but those with thighs of stell can be rewarded with VERY long rides of over 400 meters.
When to surf in La Union?
December and January are the best time to surf in La Union.
Being on the west coast of Luzon means that the surf season in La Union plays out opposite to what it does in the Pacific-facing destinations on the islands. Well…almost.
December and January tend to be the peak times, mainly because they see NW swells cruise through from the North Pacific and the central Pacific Ocean thanks to the Amihan wind system that works like clockwork.
That said, there are almost always waves on offer, though it turns to mushy beginner stuff in the spring and summer for the most part. That’s fine for hitting San Juan Beach Break and learning, though.
Where to stay when surfing in La Union?
The Circle Hostel La Union/HostelWorldLa Union has grown in the last five years enough to offer proper backpackery surf-style lodges right by the main surf point.
There are still a few tempting options in the jungled hills behind, too – though they have to tempt you enough to warrant traveling back and forth to the waves whenever you wanna surf.
- The Circle Hostel La Union – The best bet for backpacker surfers on a budget is this sleek posh-tel. It’s fantastically finished; all polished concrete and bamboo. Also within walking distance of the surf point, and comes with a good all-round feel – people hang out on the terraces, clink beers together, that sort of thing.
- Kahuna Beach Resort and Spa – The more upscale option is this Aloha-themed hotel resort right on the coast. Nice pool, big rooms, and goregeous tropical gardens are what you get for forking out a bit more.
- Shorebreak Hostel – Another fantastic hostel right beside the main surf point, Shorebreak Hostel has rad pod beds for extra privacy, a family-feel to it but also youthful, and – here’s the kicker – resident dogs. Labradors galore!
There are plenty more stays on offer within walking distance of the beach. Our tip: Use Booking.com’s handy map feature to pinpoint somwhere that’s got good reviews (there are lots that aren’t so well-reviewed here) and lets you stay within walking distance of
We might use affiliate links in this post. Basically, you click em’ and we get a little something from your booking or purchase. They help us keep offering more and more in-depth surf guides to awesome places all around the globe. So, thanks for that!
Thanks for the info .
Surfed there in the 80’s when I was stationed at Clark AB. Cold fronts passing thru Hong Kong bring the best surf. When HK gets below 65 deg, you can expect surf. Carrilles takes a major swell, it’s like Rincon in California . I have surfed there with rides over a minute long. If Carrilles is breaking proper, everywhere else is too big and closed out.