Chacala Guide – The Secret Surf Town of the Riviera Nayarit

Chacala is a bijou fishing town tucked onto a gorgeous scythe of sand roughly midway up the Riveira Nayarit. Most people overlook it in favor of more-famous Sayulita or San Pancho, and that’s the draw: It’s off-the-beaten-path, uber-relaxed, and has access to some seriously spectacular surf.

An introduction to Chacala

When it comes to the Riveira Nayarit, Sayulita is the stand-out star. We’d go as far as to say that it’s now the most famous surf town in the whole of Mexico (sorry, Puerto Escondido) and it shows – it’s always busy, has surf camps coming out of its ears, and is the first port of call for most surf travelers heading north out of Puerto Vallarta.

But the Riviera is nearly 200 miles long and there’s MUCH more to it than just Sayulita. There are towns and villages and alluring little beach communities aplenty to the north. One we’ve waxed lyrical about aplenty is San Pancho, but even further north, some 90km from Puerto Vallarta Airport, lies gorgeous – utterly gorgeous – Chacala.

They call Chacala the “Gallery Town” because it’s a piece of art in its own right. Spilling down a jungle-threaded hillside to meet a long, blond-brown run of beachfront, it’s a mass of family casitas and cantinas all woven together by cobbled streets.

The population is just 300 or something. That will swell a bit during the peak summer months and over Mexican holidays, but the crowds are NEVER the same as you get in Sayulita.

The main things to do are kick-back under a coconut palm, drink margaritas to the sunset, and – of course – surf (we’ll get to the sheer quality of the breaks a little later, but let’s just say they’re perfect for true adventure lovers). But there’s also a 2,500-year-old history site, and some seriously gorgeous boutique hotels that are a bit out of the ordinary.

This guide will run through everything you need to know about planning a surf trip – or just a trip – to Chacala, a place we rate as one of the best-kept secrets of the Riviera Nayarit.

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This guide is just one part of our complete guide to surfing in Mexico

What’s in this guide to Chacala?

Where is Chacala?

Chacala is in the state of Nayarit. It is located on the Pacific coast, roughly midway between the cities of Tepic, the capital of Nayarit, and Puerto Vallarta, a popular resort city that’s super-famous for its spring break parties and whatnot.

Tepic is about 85 kilometers to the northeast, while Puerto Vallarta – home to the nearest major airport – is approximately 100 kilometers to the southwest.

Nearby, to the north of Chacala, is the town of Las Varas, about 20 kilometers away, which serves as a local hub for transportation. You might need to catch buses through there to get on your way to Chacala.

How to get to Chacala?

First, you gotta’ fly to Mexico.

The closest option is Tepic International Airport (TPQ) but there’s only like two daily arrivals there, including a handy one on Aeroméxico from Mexico City.

However, it’s much, much more likely that you’ll find a good deal into Puerto Vallarta Airport, which is now linked by long-hauls to many US cities and to multiple Mexican destinations besides. That’s generally seen as the hub of the whole Riviera Nayarit – the stretch of coast where you’ll find little Chacala.

Try using Kiwi to search flights – they have a unique algo that links together all airlines to get the best deal, not just the ones that use codeshares. It can turn up some great bargains.

From the airport, you have a couple of options…

Car hire – To get to Chacala from major cities like Tepic or Puerto Vallarta, you can drive along Highway 200, which is the main coastal road connecting the towns and cities along this part of the Pacific coast. The drive from either city takes about 1.5 to 2 hours. Hiring a car is becoming more common in this part of Mex but it’s still pretty rare. Check RentalCars for the best rates, and be sure to take the usual precautions around driving in Mexico (especially: No driving at night!).
Local buses – There are two daily buses from the central Puerto Vallarta station (don’t worry – it’s neatly placed right across the road from the airport) that go all the way up the riviera to Las Varas. You’ll need a taxi for the onward journey from Varas to Chacala (about 10-15 mins). Expect to pay $10 for the bus and around $15 for the taxi.
Private transfer/taxi – A lot of surfers will do this option because it means you can take boards and big bags (so long as the driver doesn’t mind). It’s also the quickest way to get from airport to beach. Rates are usually $50-100 for a trip direct to Chacala.

When to visit Chacala?

The whole Riveira Nayarit – including Chacala – is a year-round destination. You can come anytime and expect hot weather and plenty of sunshine.

The official rainy season runs from May through to the start of October and it’s HOT! We’re talking regular days over 100 F and high humidity. Be sure to get a hotel with air-con if you come then and expect a few extra downpours.

On the flip side, the summer is the best time for surfing. Strong SW swells – the ones that help La Caleta work – are at their strongest after May, and there are nice offshores most mornings to glass things up.

The winter – from October to March – is a bit cooler but not much. It’s perfect if you want to escape the cold North American temps and get lots of sun. It can be dry for weeks on end, though it’s normal for it to rain for short bursts some evenings.

When it comes to surf, the winter tends to be smaller and easier – better for beginners.

One thing we can say you should totally take is sunscreen. It’s HOT in these parts.

I’m a big fan of the Suntribe surf stuff for being in the water – they’re an eco minded and it’s low on chemicals. We’ve partnered with them to get 10% off for The Surf Atlas readers, too.

Things to do in Chacala

Most people come here to surf. But beach lazing and exploring the local area are fun when there aren’t any waves…

Playa Chacala

Chacala is mainly about kicking back and relaxing. The beach here is one of the very best in the whole region, which is saying something! It’s a C-shape of whitish-beige sand set beneath a halo of jungled hills.

There’s a cluster of bars right by the town but not too many – just enough for your evening margarita with the sunset. You can easily escape them by walking south along the bay, where you’ll find lots of space and privacy under the coconut palms.

Altavista Petroglyph Complex

No visit to Chacala could be complete without a trip to the amazing Altavista Petroglyph Complex.

Located in the mountains about 25 minutes inland from the beach, it’s home to an array of 56 petroglyphs that are carved into the lichen-covered rocks of the Nayarit jungle. Experts believe they date back more than 2,500 years and reveal secrets of the pre-historic Tequectequi peoples. Some are even thought to depict a haunting beheading ritual that involved kidnapping warriors from nearby towns and sacrificing them to the gods.

It’s usually free to enter the site but sometimes there’s a caretaker there who will ask for a dollar or something. Getting to the Altavista Petroglyph Complex can be hard if you don’t know your way. We did it by asking at the hotel desk in Chacala. They got us a driver who took us right there and showed us the entrance.

Surf

We’ll dig deeper in to the surf in Chacala below. For now, we’ll just say that the town has access to two of the very best left-hand point breaks on the Riveira Nayarit. It’s great for more advanced, adventure-seeking surfers since you gotta get to them by boat and they’re both reef-bottomed.

That said, the town can also be a good base for surfing up and down the riviera – it’s possible to get a chilled hotel here and enjoy the vibe and travel down to Sayulita, for example.

Surfing in Chacala

Chacala’s main beach isn’t great for surfing. In fact, it’s often hailed as the finest swimming beach on the Riviera Nayarit because it’s so well sheltered and rarely sees a wave over a foot.

So, you won’t be able to walk to any spot directly from your hotel in town (well, at least not without hiking boots!). But that’s kinda’ what makes this such a fun surf destination.

Chacala’s surf is all about adventure. There are at least two very high-quality point breaks near the village that are only accessible by boat or trek (and the trek is nigh-on ridiculous, so let’s just say boat!).

We rate them as two of the finest spots on the riviera outside of Punta Mita. They’re rarely crowded, very clean, and very good fun.

On top of that, there’s a decent array of more varied breaks on offer in the Chacala region. Drive up to 40 minutes north or south and you can find reliable rivermouth lefts and right, plus fun Mexican beach breaks for learners/improvers.

Let’s take a closer look at the whole lot, starting with the….

Surf spots in Chacala

As we’ve already mentioned: There aren’t surf spots on Playa Chacala at all. You’ll need to hitch a ride to both of the ones listed below on a local boat taxi. That’s easy enough, because it’s a common thing for the few surfers who do make their way here.

Colorine

This is the closest wave to Chacala. Boats will take just 5-10 minutes to reach it, going around the main headland and north of the town to the cliffs that front the private gated community of Chacalilla.

Though fickle, Colorine is a great wave when it’s on. Needs mid-sized swells and long periods to shine. When it does, it’s a very nice left-hand point with peeling sets that suits performance shortboarders down to the ground.

Be warned: The reef at Colorine is notoriously shallow and urchin spike are super common here.

La Caleta

This is the wave that puts Chacala on the surf map of the Nayarit coast. It’s really, really good. A point-break left over shallow rock reef, it’s one for more advanced surfers. Works best on stronger swells over 5 foot and a pushing tide, when there’s lots of water in the bay to create longer rides (75-100m is normal on a good day).

The take-off is oddly lazy and mellow, as the swell pulses against the rocks and then bulges into the peak. Paddle hard there and angle well into the line for the middle sections which pitch well and steepen to give lots of play room for shortboarders. In our minds – at least when we surfed it – it felt like the perfect place for drawing big, loose lines on a twinny.

The best part? La Caleta is NEVER busy. It’s not like any of the breaks in the Puerto Vallarta area in that there’s max 2-5 people on it most days and the vibe is nice. Also, the water is super clear.

To get here, take a boat from the main harbor in Chacala. They charge around 800 MXN for the ride. Always be sure to arrange a time for them to come collect you – otherwise you’ll be stranded in Caleta Beach. You can also walk here from the town. There’s a lovely jungle hiking route through thick coconut groves. It’s gnarly with the boards in hand and takes about two hours but is good fun if you’re game.

Surf spots near Chacala

Platanitos [45 minutes from Chacala] – This small town is at the bottom end of a pretty beach. There’s not much surf there, but you can walk the streets behind to get to one of the region’s best right-hand rivermouth waves (see Playa Las Tortugas below).
Playa Las Tortugas [1h10 from Chacala] – Playa Las Tortugas is closer to Chacala than Platanitos as the crow flies but it takes longer to get here since it’s on the badly-connected south side of the estuary. It’s a very beautiful spot with some remote hotels behind the beachfront. The waves are good for lots of levels; mainly sandbank A-frames. More importantly, this is better for accessing the longer right off the rivermouth that’s people often attribute to Platanitos.
Los Ayala/Rincón de Guayabitos [33 minutes from Chacala] – Los Ayala’s and Guayabitos’s beaches is really protected and most people who come here head to either Lo de Marcos or Sayulita to surf. It’s got tinnnnyyy waves for groms and kids who might enjoy a body board but that’s it.
Lo de Marcos [40 minutes from Chacala] – Lo de Marcos has some mushy beach breaks and two intermediate+ point breaks that work at the south end of the beach. They’ll do nice left handers on the bigger summer swells between May and August.
San Pancho [50 minutes from Chacala] – One of our favorite surf towns in Mexico – nay, the whole world! – San Pancho is vibrant but not overly so. The beach has plenty of peaks but watch out for patches of reef and getting dumped on. Despite the rental spots, it’s not for learners.
Sayulita [1 hour from Chacala] – The famous beginner surf town of the riviera is only an hour’s drive from Chacala. There’s no reason you can’t do a day trip to surf the easy points in front of town and then return to the relaxed enclave of Chacala for your evening. No need to deal with the mega parties and noise of Sayulita itself. This is definitely the place to go if you want to do a planned surf camp or surf lessons.

Where to stay in Chacala?

Chacala’s emergence as an upscale, alternative to Sayulita has given it a very good array of hotels. Some of the best have popped up in the last couple of years and offer real luxury and thought-provoking design.

But you can also get down-to-earth Mexican guesthouses that won’t break the bank.

Our recs would include….

Casa Liquen – A seriously gorgeous hotel that’s done out in pink plaster from head to toe. The interiors are artfully shaped with shady arches and courtyards paved in terracotta. The highlights are the pool, which sits tucked between chilled sitting nooks and cacti gardens, and the rooftop, where you can sit and gaze at the yachts in Chacala bay.
Hotel Pura Chacala – A more homey, less-design focused option, the Hotel Pura Chacala has spacious rooms and a nice pool-garden space at the top of Chacala hill. It would be our top pick for couples on a midrange budget.
Hotel Casa Chacala – Clean rooms in a convenient location with a decent pool, all for under $60/night. It’s nothing fancy but it does the job and the owners are very nice people.

These are just three options that we like – there are upwards of 20 hotels in Chacala now, plus privated, gated villas the smaller area of Chacelita to the north. You can check them all out and see exactly where they are using Booking.com’s map thing.

Where to eat in Chacala?

Chacala has some really nice spots for a taste of authentic Mexico. You’ll notice there’s not so much in the way of uber-cool hipster coffee spots and things, the sort of which are everywhere in Sayulita. It’s more family-owned tacquerias and margarita joints on the beach.

Don’t miss…

Lalaxtli Bread – A really cool eatery in some sort of ruined building on the clifftop. You’ll sit under the jungle vines and eat super-tasty plates of nachos and cheese, artisan burgers, and sweet pancakes. Deffo visit this one!
Chico’s Restaurant – You can’t miss Chico’s. It’s right on the seafront on the main playa and a bit of a Chacala legend. They put hundreds of plastic tables and chairs on the sand to serve big, hearty plates to Mexican families. Cold beers and icy margaritas top it off. Great at sunset.