Learn all about the Popoyo surf, including that legendary Outer Reef and the super-consistent Main Reef. This is our pick for an upper-intermediate-expert surf trip in Nicaragua.
An introduction to Popoyo surf
Popoyo is a tale of two waves. When most people talk about it, they’re referring to the uber-consistent Main Reef. That’s steps from the shore, fronted by a couple of pretty fantastic surf camps, and works all tides, most swell directions, and almost all winds. You can surf it morning until night, scoring hollow tubes on both the left and the right. Some will come here to hunt a once-in-a-lifetime drop in on the Outer Reef. That needs big 12-foot+ swells to rock in to get working and when it does it reminds us more of an Irish bomb – think slabby, heavy, unforgiving, only in bath-warm tropical water.
So, those are the stars here. But there’s a smattering of plenty more stringing up the sands to the north and south of the above. Everything from peeling left points for beginners to niche performance waves are in the mix. And it’s all super accessible, often just by walking. The upshot? Popoyo is now arguably the best all-in-one surf destination in Nicaragua. It covers all bases for lots of levels, has great surf stays, and is fairy accessible from Managua.
We might use affiliate links in this post. Basically, you click em’ and we get a little something from your booking or purchase. They help us keep offering more and more in-depth surf guides to awesome places all around the globe. So, thanks for that!
This guide is just one part of our complete guide to surfing in Nicaragua
Popoyo surf at a glance
The good…
The bad…
What’s in this guide to Popoyo surf?
Where is Popoyo?
Popoyo is located in southwestern Nicaragua. It’s about 2.5 hours’ drive from the capital in Managua, in the Rivas Department – the region that’s also home to the other surf mainstays of San Juan del Sur and Playa Maderas. Getting here is a little easier than getting to those two, though. That’s mainly because Popoyo is nearer the main airport at Augusto C. Sandino International Airport, in Managua city.
A guide to Popoyo surf spots
There’s a neat selection of waves running along a three-mile stretch of the Pacific coast here. The two standouts are Main Break and Outer, but that’s not the whole story. Let’s run through the bunch…
Playa Guasacate
Sand-bottomed Playa Guasacate runs the whole length of Popoyo town. It’s broken up only by the sections of reef that host the waves listed below. Outside of those, you will find multiple peaks that suit beginner and lower intermediate surfers, provided it’s under 7 foot on the main swell. This is a spot regularly used by learners in between sessions down in Beginner Bay.
Stoneys
Stoneys can sometimes draw the eye even more than the Main Reef when there’s a solid SW swell kicking in the summer months. It’s kinda’ the only true point break in the town, sending sets of marching lefts reeling off a narrow shelf of reef just south of the more popular spots. It’s best when its 5-8foot and with neat SE offshores, when you’ll usually get to ride a nice, sectiony wave with steep shoulders and the odd hollow backdoor section.
Outer Reef
Outer Reef is actually one of the heaviest waves in Central America. Ultra-consistent throughout the large-swell summer months, it’s a beasty break that draws in the local pros and gun riders for sets that hold above 25 foot. It’s really only for the most experienced surfers out there, rolling into sharp reef about 150 meters off the Main Reef. A super-steep drop takes you off a frothing peak into a fast and uber-hollow left wall of water that some say is Pipeline but is more like a Gaelic tube on the Irish West Coast thanks to its ridiculously beefy slab top. It’s a quick ride that you’ll need to get right because the end section is on super-shallow rock reef that’s caused plenty of injuries in its time.
Main Reef
Main Reef is really where the joy is at in Popoyo. A super-high-quality A-frame wave that breaks across a fairy well-covered ledge of rock right in front of the main playa, it basically ALWAYS working. Seriously, we’ve never been in town when it’s not firing, including on off-season days in the winter. Any swell direction works, any tide, and winds are usually lightly offshore from the east. The wave itself offers a left and right that’s hollow and moderately long. We say it’s a true upper-intermediate gem that rewards solid shortboarders with regular barrels and long sessions.
Beginner Bay
Beginner Bay does exactly what it says on the tin: Offer a top spot for complete beginners away from the heaviness of Main Reef and Outer Reef. The location is key – it’s set right at the south end of Playa Guasacate, with a long breakwater jutting out at its western end. That means the hardest SW swells need to wrap the whole way around nearly a full 180 degrees to get on the inside of the bay, by which time they are sure to be the mellowest little cruisers going. It’s big-board territory, great for practicing green-wave pop ups, has a sand bottom, and is actually rarely too busy. It’s got all the ingredients.
Playa Santana
A long run of sand that stretches south of the famous Main Reef, Playa Santana is now the sort of de facto home of Popoyo’s surf hostels and hotels. It’s a good place to be based because there are multiple peaks on offer the whole way up the playa. Some can get nice and hollow in the right conditions (mid-tide, strong SW swells), but there are decent learner spots to boot. Generally speaking, the sets will be less punchy the further south along the beach you travel.
Where to stay when surfing in Popoyo?
Popoyo now boasts some of the very best surf camp packages in the country, especially if you’re a more experienced surfer looking for heavier sessions than the ones offered by the spots around Playa Maderas and SJDS. Here are some of the surf stays that we think are turning heads in 2023.
Nicawaves
To be frank, Nicawaves is the go-to surf camp in the Popoyo region. It’s one of the originals, has a top location literally steps off Main Reef, and a super-nice property with thatched sunning cabanas and tropical-design rooms. Our advice? If it’s available…book it!
Vibra Guesthouse Popoyo
Vibra Guesthouse Popoyo really does have some sweet vibes. It’s a chill spot with a cool exotic design – think thatched roofs and hammocks dotted around. It’s only a short walk back from the waves of Playa Guasacate.
Casitas Pacific
These are really cool: Casitas Pacific are a series of luxurious duplex stays suited to families and couples. They’re a stroll from the beach, with balconies that look through the coast jungles to the waves. Ah, and the resident labrador is just lovely to come back to after a surf!
Step-by-step guide to planning your Popoyo surf trip right now
Step one: Book flights to the Popoyo surf…Lately, we like Omio for searching flights. It’s a nice interface and has lots of airline options. We also use Skyscanner because that sometimes offers deals that even beat going direct to the carrier!
Step two: Book your surf camp Book Surf Camps is the numero uno online booking platform for fully-fledged surf-stay packages on the internet right now. Then there’s Booking.com. That has consistently unbeatable rates for hotels and a nifty map feature that lets you check EXACTLY how close your hotel is to a surf break.
Step three: Get insuranceThis is kinda’ important. Not just for surf trips but for any trips. SafetyWing is great for nomad travelers. They offer rolling contracts that cover amateur surfing.
Step four (optional): Rent a car If you’re surf camping then you might not need wheels. If you’re not then we’ll just say this: We’ve never been on a surf trip that wasn’t improved by having our own car. Use RentalCars – they’re the best.
Step five: Enjoy!
For paying for stuff when you’re traveling – Get a Wise borderless card/account. They charge NOTHING for POS payments in any country and have some of the best FX rates around in our humble opinion.
When to surf in Popoyo?
Popoyo is all about consistency and that means there’s never really a bad time to go surfing here. There are sure to be waves all year round. That said, the winter is definitely more suited to beginners, since the NW swells aren’t as strong and waves tend to be much smaller from December to March. When things change to SW swells around May time, it’s the moment for the barrels on Main Reef and the heavier sets on Outer Reef. That time’s better suited to experts and upper intermediate surfers, though it’s likely to be a touch busier in the water.
We might use affiliate links in this post. Basically, you click em’ and we get a little something from your booking or purchase. They help us keep offering more and more in-depth surf guides to awesome places all around the globe. So, thanks for that!
