The Baleal surf is the beginner offering of Peniche. It takes you to a town just north of Peniche itself where you get two beaches with better protection that others down the coast. It’s the top place to go if you want surf camps or surf schools, especially when the swells get bigger after the fall.
An introduction to Baleal surf
Baleal is often seen as an extension of Peniche but it’s sort of come into its own in the last couple of years, offering some of the more protected breaks on this long run of what’s now legendary surf shoreline. That’s all down to the shape of the coast, which protrudes out into a fishhook-shaped island that’s fringed on its northern side by a run of beaches that have fantastic shelter from the biggest W and NW swells, plus those killer Atlantic onshores.
The upshot? The breaks here tend to be tempered and small compared to Supertubos and Nazare and others that face direct into the ocean. It’s for that reason that surf camps have popped up in the town ad infinitum and you get some of the very best total-beginner offerings in Portugal if you ask us.
Beyond the waves, Baleal is a charming town of whitewashed cottages. Prettier than Peniche, it also has it’s own buzzy nightlife scene and stretch of cantinas with views of the surf.
We might use affiliate links in this post. Basically, you click em’ and we get a little something from your booking or purchase. They help us keep offering more and more in-depth surf guides to awesome places all around the globe. So, thanks for that!
This guide is just one part of our complete guide to surfing Portugal
Baleal at a glance
Wave type: Beach breaks // Level: Beginners (but all levels come) // Season: All year, smaller in summer
The good…
The bad…
What’s in this guide to Baleal surf?
Where is Baleal?
Baleal is a part of the Leiria District of Portugal, which spreads north from the city of Lisbon along a coastline that’s become super-famous for its waves. Most surfers look to nearby Peniche, which is only 3km to the south of Baleal itself. You can get between the two in a taxi (20 euro) or by car (10 minutes). More generally, the town occupies a small tombolo (a isthmus beach) that offers surf on two sides. The nearest airport is in Lisbon.
Baleal surf spots
Baleal has a handful of surf spots of its own. Most guides couple them together with Peniche because the area is seen as the nursery slope of that popular surf town. However, we think they are worth talking about distinct from Peniche simply because you can get away with a surf trip that’s 100% based in Baleal itself. Here’s what you’ll have on the doorstep…
Cantinho da Baia
This is the other side of Baleal Island from Praia do Baleal Norte. It’s a sweeping bay that has far more exposure to the main W and NW swells so will get big and can be a bit of a daunting paddle out. Summer surf schools come here after graduating from the smaller waves in Prainha. Generally speaking, the further south along Cantinho you go the bigger the sets get. E is offshore. Works on all tides but best on the push.
Praia do Baleal Norte
Get to know Praia do Baleal Norte well – this will likely be your main playground if you join a surf camp in Baleal or even Peniche. A north-facing beach that arcs around the headland where the old town of Baleal makes its home, it’s about 800m long in all. There’s space for two separate breaks, which are actually pretty different:
- Prainha – This is the place where you’re likely to start out. It’s the easiest wave in Baleal and pretty much all of Peniche, mainly thanks to the high levels of protection that’s offered by Baleal island that sits immediately to the west. NW-W swells bend around the rocks there and filter into the bay to give nice clean sets that you can ride in any direction, though we’d say that the lefts are better. Try not to stick too close into the cliff as there’s a small rip. Crowds come by midday so dawnies are best.
- Lagide – The middle section of Praia do Baleal Norte sees a bit of extra size on any swell direction to Prainha. You can move in here to start scoring slightly larger green waves when you’re ready.
Gigi
Gigi Beach is one along from Praia do Baleal Norte. It’s a stretch of about 390m that offers extra space. During the smaller summer months, it’s known as one of the finest longboard waves in town, mainly because dominant W swells are tempered a lot this far beyond the Baleal island.
Peniche
Peniche has a whole clutch of other surf spots. It’s 10 minutes’ drive from the center of Baleal. Perhaps the most famous is Supertubos, a tuck-in barrel shorebreak that’s often on the cover of surf mags. But there are multiple peaks for all levels scattered down Praia do Molhe Leste all the way to Praia da Consolação.
We’ve got a complete guide to surfing in Peniche
Where to stay when surfing in Baleal?
There’s a fantastic array of surf hotels in Baleal these days. Many have arrived precisely because the town is now considered one of the very best of the learner spots in the country. We think you want to focus on the options that string down the main road away from the beach and the places close to the old town of Baleal Island, though they are likely to be a touch more expensive.
The Wave Baleal
The Wave Baleal gets you literally a stone’s throw from the peeling beginner waves of Praia do Baleal Norte. A cozy surf lodge with a proper Portuguese look to it, it has apartments and doubles that open to face the Atlantic. The joint is in the old town of Baleal – the most charming part of the whole place
Surfness Lodge
A proper surf lodge that’s perched up on the cliffs at the eastern end of the main beach, this one’s great for access to Gigi and Lagide. We love the vibe and the view from the terrace, from where you can check the surf conditions at a glance.
Captains Log House
The budget option, Captains Log House is a fun-filled B&B with hostely vibes that dots the main road leading away from Balean center.
Baleal actually has some of the best beginner surf camps in the country. But there are plenty, plenty more across Portugal. Check out this guide to the 10 most upcoming options for 2023.
Surf camps in Baleal
One of the reasons that we think Baleal is worth a whole separate guide on its own is that it’s now home to some of the very best beginner surf camps in the country. That’s really saying something in Portugal, where there are thousands on offer. Sadly, the selection is now muddied by some that aren’t so great. But we can recommend
- 5 Day Flash Surf Experience in Baleal at Martin’s Villa – You don’t stay in Baleal central with this surf camp, but rather in a chilled villa about 15 minutes’ drive from the beach. The reason we love it is because the tuition here is seriously good quality . It’s all run by Joao Neto and the focus is on having fun first, which is what surfing should always be about!
- 4 Day Exciting Surf Camp in Baleal Beach at Alex Surf Hostel – The Alex Surf Hostel is pretty sweet stuff. It’s a modern spot with a grassy garden and sleek rooms. There’s a big common space to help you meet and greet other surfers, who will surely be big pals by the end of it all. This four-day package includes three days of surf lessons, and usually some sessions on the waves of Peniche if people improve enough.
We also have a complete guide to the top surf camps in Portugal for 2023, some of which – mainly for the beginner crowd – are in Baleal and Peniche.
Step-by-step guide to planning your baleal surf trip right now
Step one: Book flights to the baleal surf…Lately, we like Omio for searching flights. It’s a nice interface and has lots of airline options. We also use Skyscanner because that sometimes offers deals that even beat going direct to the carrier!
Step two: Book your surf camp. Book Surf Camps is the numero uno online booking platform for fully-fledged surf-stay packages on the internet right now. Then there’s Booking.com. That has consistently unbeatable rates for hotels and a nifty map feature that lets you check EXACTLY how close your hotel is to a surf break.
Step three: Rent a car. If you’re surf camping then you might not need wheels. If you’re not then we’ll just say this: We’ve never been on a surf trip that wasn’t improved by having our own car. Use RentalCars – they’re the best.
Step four: Enjoy!
When to surf in Baleal?
There’s surf all year round in Baleal. The biggest swells come from the fall onwards, with strong NW swells hitting between October and March most years. That doesn’t disqualify any would-be learners looking to do a surf school entirely. There’s lots of whitewash to keep you going plus there’s more protection on the north-facing beaches here than in virtually any other surf destination on the central Portuguese coast.
That said, we’d still recommend the spring and the summer months for total beginners. they offer smaller, easier waves and less wind, which is a real doozy since it can churn up the sets here like it’s nobody’s business. Book early for then, through – Peniche and Baleal are like the Hossegor of PT (AKA: It’s popular).
We might use affiliate links in this post. Basically, you click em’ and we get a little something from your booking or purchase. They help us keep offering more and more in-depth surf guides to awesome places all around the globe. So, thanks for that!
