Ericeira Surf Guide – A COMPLETE Surf Guide

• Wave quality – The Surfing Reserve covers the northern part of the town. As you’ll see later on, that’s the more challenging sector in Ericeira and it comes with world-class breaks like the Coxos barrel.
• Surf culture and maritime history – The Jagoz peoples who once inhabited Ericeira survived solely because of the ocean. That set them apart from the rest of Portugal’s ancient tribes, who combined living on the land with living on the sea.
• Environment – Ericeira’s surf coast is incredibly varied. You’ll see this when you travel north out of town – the shores oscillate between seaweed-covered rock reefs and soaring cliffs. It’s a mecca for marine life, from seals to sardines.

In total, there are seven waves included in the designated reserve area. As we’ve mentioned, they are generally better suited to upper intermediate and advanced surfers. The first is just north of town at Caves

Ericeira surf spots

By some estimations there are over 65 spots on Ericiera’s stretch of coast.

That’s a lot, and goes to show just how varied this town is.

It’s definitely worth researching the individual spots before you head out becuase some are much more challening than others; some are great beginner beach breaks others are heavy reefs for advanced surfers only.

I like to divide up the breaks here into three easy categories: The surf spots to the north of Ericeira (which is the World Surfing Reserve are), the spots in the town itself (the ones you can walk to from hotels in the old town), and the spots to the south (which are generally bigger, more open beach breaks suited to beginners and all levels).

My bracketed descriptions there are by no means a hard and fast rule. There are some beginner spots north of town, and some harder ones to the south, too.

Let’s take it spot by spot to outline all the amazing stuff that’s on the menu. Warning: This is a lonnnnngg section. The whole way I’ll run from the north to the south with the town breaks in the middle.

Surf spots to the north of Ericeira

The coast to the north of Ericeira is rockier and more rugged than the south.

It’s generally seen as the more challenging area, where you can score the famous barrels and points on the reefs.

They really come into their own on those heavy NW winter swells but can work at any time in the year.

Praia da Calada

At low tides, Praia da Calada has a reef that gives some half-decent A-frame peaks that are pitching on the left into a short, sharp section you need to lip out of before hitting the rocks and mellower and fatter on the right, decent for logs on smaller days even.

It’s not the most consistent wave in the area, largely becuase you do need to time it for the lower tides but it does have pretty nice protection from the dominant Nortada wind in the summer thanks to the high cliffs over the north side of the bay.

They say there’s a left on the south end too but I’ve never seen it work that well. Usually just stick to the low-tide right on the north side.

Praia da Calada is usually a lot quieter than the spots nearer Ericeira town. It’s best accessed by car, and there’s plenty of space to park near the beach. The drive is about 15 minutes out of the town on the N247.

Sao Lourenco

Sao Lourenco marks the far north end of the World Surfing Reserve area. The take-off zone is around 320 meters or so off the main beach (which is a lovely, gold-sanded beach with high cliffs around it, incidentally).

On large swells – like the big 20-foot plusers in midwinter – this one’s a playground for the XXL crowd as it can hold unlike any other spot in Ericeira.

When things aren’t massive and you get the regular 3-10 foot swells that happen autumn through to spring, you can expect the right-hand reef to generate some rides that top 150 meters in length.

It’s a sectiony wave with a steep, fast initial section and then slower inside sections that can be picked up by lower intermediates nearer the beach.

Always best on lower tides but can be surfed up to about mid tide. After that there will be just too much water on the reef and it fattens into nothing. You also get nice protection from strong N winds, helping this one stay glassy in the summer.

Coxos

On days when Coxos is really pumping, it can feel like the full punch of the Atlantic is forced into its muscular right-handers.

Big barrels are the name of the game and you can score multiple cover ups on a single wave on the best days.

Sets push over a super-deep trench and then whack into a very shallow reef shelf that’s infested with urchins (boots are a must and knowledge of how to get in/out of the water).

On the best days, the take off will throw you straight onto a vert wall that’s almost barreling from the get-go. You can backdoor it if you sit in the right place.

It’s a bit similar to Anchor Point in Morocco in what it can handle and how it rides. That is, except for the super-territorial crew of locals that will be out there on the best days.

Experts only.

Crazy Left

Crazy Left is the left to the Coxos Right. It breaks under the big cliffs on the south end of the Baía dos Coxos.

Most people will park up near Coxos itself and paddle out in the same channel to get to the wave, which is fickle to say the least.

It like strong SW swells and any wind in the NE quadrant to work best. Any veterans of the Surfing Reserve here will tell you that’s a pretty rare combo for Ericeira.

When it does work, there will be an army of exceptionally good goofy riders crossing from Coxos itself to score the almond barrels that suck up off the very shallow reefs and filter into the channel. It’s always rippy but a really wild wave that’s part The Box, part something out of the Ments.

Caves

Breaking just in front of Praia da Pesqueira south of Coxos, Caves is one of the gnaly slabs that really showcase how heavy Ericiera’s World Surfing Reserve area can get on those winter swells.

When it’s punching in January and February, daredevils will scoot out here to try and steal backdoor sections on a pounding right-hander. It’s a frothing beast that reminds us of a mini Shipsterns, with occasional double up sections and a loyal following of bodyboarders who don;t mind getting lugged around.

Great to watch. Hard to surf.

Pontissima

Pontissima is essentially the name for the far outer section of Ribeira D’Ilhas.

When the big NW swells push through here in winter and fall, they’ll graze the cliffs about 600 meters northwest of Ribeira itself and fire off some strong sets that remind me of Moroccan right handers in the peak season.

They are big, slabby, heavy and rippable from top to bottom when they really shape up.

It’s hardly ever crowded out here because you need to paddle all the way around from Ribeira D’Ilhas beach and that can take some time/muscle power.

It’s a difficult wave though, so advanced surfers only.

Pontinha

Closer to the main beach at Ribeira D’Ilha than Pontissima, Pontinha is another of the outside sections here. It’s a strange wave that hardly takes shape until sets really push up against the reef shelf.

When they do they’ll get steep very quickly and start to peel off into the deeper water. It’s commmon to get sectioned out of the wave before it can connect up to the start zone of Ribeira D’Ilhas but I’ve heard through rides can happen.

Shallow rocks. Hard entry. Very rippy. Experts only.

Ribeira D’Ilhas

The go-to arena for surf competitions in Ericeira for its reliable swells, Ribeira D’Ilhas almost always has something on offer.

It’s on the northernmost edge of Ericeira, running under high cliffs at the end of a dusty track.

Where the ocean meets the land, it rolls over a series of concealed reefs. They sculpt the NW currents into a lovely, long right hander.

Reef

Of the three spots on Praia da Empa, the first beach you hit when you leave Ericiera town to the north, Reef is probably the most daunting (even more so than Pedra Branca).

It’s on super super shallow reef and barrels almost right away, with big, thumping swell that comes out of a trench to add power to the wave.

Not for beginners at all.

Backdoor

Backdoor is fun right-hander that sits on the reef at Praia da Empa, with the more challenging Reef (see above) to the north.

Of the three waves in this bay, it’s the most approachable, though it still packs plenty of punch.

The wave thrives on smaller, cleaner swells with medium periods, when it’s known for offering fast, rippable walls that allow for snappy turns and the occasional barrel on swells over four foot.

Pedra Branca

Pedra Branca is arguably the best left hander in Portugal and certainly one of the best lefts in Ericiera. It’s highly consistent, working on anything over a couple of feet up to 20 feet or something ridiculous.

The take off is over shallow reef just north of town, at the south end of Praia da Empa. Paddle hard there are drop fast because it’s unforgiving. You’ll either backdoor straight into a slab barrel or be pushed to the front of the wave and bail on almost dry reef.

It’s also possible to sit a bit north on the shoulder to avoid that initial section but that doesn’t make it much easier to be honest.

It’s fast as hell and barrels are everywhere from fall to winter onwards.

Expert surfers only and big local following.

Surf spots in Ericiera town itself

There are a few pretty great breaks that don’t really fit into the north or south category here because they’re in the town itself.

Matadouro

There’s a gap in the reef at Matadouro Beach that means you can walk between the rocks and paddle out kinda easily. The sets here tend to be a good for improvers throughout the summer and spring when they are a bit smaller but then can get big and dumpy in the peak winter.

It’s a popular spot with multi-level groups because the main wave is an A-frame out back. The pocket on the left is really slow and gurgling, good for bigger boards. The right is steeper and harder but still not crazy on mid-swells.

There’s plenty of whitewash closer to the shores that the groms and beginners can mess around on too. Popular with surf schools. Usually has a crowd but it’s nice enough.

São Sebastião

There’s a really nice pathway with a white-painted wall zigzagging down the cliff to the beach of São Sebastião. It’s right beside a big roundabout on the coast road with the Sebastião Bar on the cliffs overhead (one of my top places for a sunset beer here – just a chill little kiosk with cheap Super Bock).

Anyway, the surf is on the beach below but mainly off the pathes of reef that are on the north end. There is a big left that likes lots of swell on the south side of the beach but it’s right off an almost dry patch of rock at low, which is when it works, and is kinda crazy wave.

The right at the top can be really good for all levels of surfer except beginners. There are even some surf schools there in the summer with thier intermediate crews becuase, while it’s on rock, it’s nice and deep and a bit slower than lots of rights further north of town.

Moita

Moita is the name of the wave at the very far end of Praia do Norte beach on the north side of the breakwater from Praia dos Pescadores, the main beach in Ericiera.

It kinda wraps into the cliffs between Praia do Norte and São Sebastião.

It’s plagued by localism this one, at least in my experience, so best left alone. It’s a good enough wave with a fast left that can barrel as it takes you around a reef and a mellower right that’s good for intermediates.

Praia do Norte

Praia do Norte runs from the breakwater in Ericeira town to the cliffs under the Ermida de São Sebastião da Ericeira chapel.

It gets PLENTY of swell almost all year and will usually be working on anything over two foot. The peaks look all lined up as they come into the bay but then section out into a couple of take offs, with one A-frame in the middle usually where crowds stick, although there’s a wedgy left on the breakwater that can be big and fun, attracting bodyboarders on its larger days.

Sadly, the whole bay gets big rips so you need paddle strength to deal with it.

It’s also known to be a local spot with a good following and generally not that welcoming to traveling surfers.

Praia dos Pescadores

Probably the most protected beach in the whole area, Praia dos Pescadores needs big swells to work.

It’s a good option when the huge winter 20-foot pulses push through from the NW, since the harbor breakwater forces the sets to wrap around, losing size as they do. Also, north winds are offshore, so it can be nice and glassy when the Nortada is dominating.

There are two main take offs: one beside the jetty, the other inside the bay taking a left that goes towards the jetty.

Usually a good wave for learners thanks to the extra protection.

Furnas

Furnas is the right point break that comes off the rocks right beneath the iconic Vila Galé Hotel.

It needs a good whack of swell to work properly because the NW sets need to come all the way around the headland, and they’ll loose power on an outside bombie before they break beside the rocks here to peel as long right shoudlers that are good fun.

With rock underneath it’s a nice intermediate+ wave that invites lots of turns and hotdogging as the pocket is nice and slow and peeling.

Praia do Sul (Baleia)

If you’re a decent intermediate looking to graduate from Lizandro’s lazier, more closey waves (see below for info on Ericiera’s best learner spot) there’s a good chance you will like this one.

Praia do Sul or Praia Baleia is an open bay with a mix of sand and rock under the water. It’s got just a little protection from big NW swells so gets busy when the coast north of town is maxing out.

On more moderate swells (2-8 foot, say) there will be lots of peaks here that move both directions. They offer rides that can extend as much as 100 metres across the bay. But, depending on the wind, it can also section out to shorter rides.

Basically, it’s a good protected option with okay waves for a good mix of levels, all super accessible from the town center.

Stay in the Laneez guesthouse above and you can do surf checks from the balcony and just walk straight down to the spot.

Papucos

Papucos is a very, very cool wave when it’s on, which it rarely is.

Needs lots of swell and is way better with W or SW than the dominant NW because the sets hook around the concrete breakwater at the south end of Sul beach and suck up off the rock shelf that’s covered at mid tide.

They do that and then instantly create nice left barrels that are fast, big and fun. Experts only.

Surf spots in south Ericeira

If you’re a beginner or a lower intermediate surfer and want to visit Ericiera then I’d highly reccomend considering a surf camp.

This is essentially everything you need to plan a good surf trip to this part of Portugal packed into one itinerary.

The price almost always covers the basics of: Surf gear, surf lessons, transport back and forth to various spots (important in Ericiera where they’re spread out a bit), and – of course – accomodation.

Some will put in nice extras too, like yoga, some meals, and even excursions. There are plenty to pick from but our favorites this year include…

• The Salty Ericiera– This brand have got fantastic packages both in Portugal and in Sri Lanka. They have an outlet in Ericiera that’s simply amazing, with its views over the town center and its stylish dorms, plus pool of course. The price includes five days of surf lessons and unlimited yoga.
• Moka Surfhouse and Yoga Retreat – Not in the center of Ericeira but amid the quieter outskirts, the Moka Surfhouse is for a complete retreat to nature. It’s big on meditation and yoga and they include three surf lessons throughout your stay. It’s more for the yogi that want some surf on the side, but still fantastic.

Want more suggestions? Read our guide to the best surf camps in Portugal and our other guide to the best surf camps in Ericeira itself.

Where to stay for surfing in Ericeira

The ever-growing popularity of Ericeira means there are now plenty of very high-quality places to stay for surfers.

Bbeing within walking distance of the main town is a must if you like nightlife, cafe culture, or just want conveniences without renting a car. That really means staying anywhere between Praia dos Pescadores and the big Continente supermarket on the N247, which is the old town area so it’s really nice and charming.

If you have a car, then you can afford to be a bit looser. I’d personally only ever come to Ericiera with a car and stay somewhere out of town, but then I’m more into self-catering and really like the ability to drive to beaches north and south of town whenever I want.

Of course, there’s always a full-on surf camp (see above), which puts everything in one package, including transport to breaks and often even food. Here, I’ll just look at some of the best accomodation options if you’re looking to book room/stay only…

• Laneez Ericeira Surf House – I rate this one among the top surf stays in Portugal as a whole. Prime location between the old town and the rights of Praia da Baleia make it perfect for watching the surf and sunsets. It’s super nicely designed with balconies and rooms that look across the Atlantic. They organize yoga and surf lessons on site if you want to participate too.
• Aethos Ericeira – A masterclass in elegant hotel design, Aethos Ericeira is one of my all-time favorite surf hotels in Europe. It’s more remote, sat on the northern end of the surfing reserve here, so closer to more challenging breaks. But luxury is the key – everything from the pool to the spa is simply amazing.
• WOT Ericeira Surf Hostel – This is the best budget choice out there in my opinion. It’s a great surf-hostel mashup with affordable rooms but loads of extras. Rooftop yoga shalas and pools are just the beginning.

There are tons and tons of options here to be honest. I often like to use Booking’s map feature to zoom in and out and see the places right next to the beaches I want to surf the most. There are some really self-catering spots beside Foz do Lizandro, for example.

We also have complete in-depth guides to the best surf hostels in Portugal and the best surf hotels in Portugal, which should offer more inspiration.

Ericeira is a year-round surf destination. However, different seasons are generally better for different levels.

As a quick breakdown:

• Summer – Best for beginners. Can be flat for some spells, but also has the easiest waves with lots of W and SW swell angle. North winds can be annoying (the Nortada) but that’s not too much of an issue on Foz de Lizandro, the beginner beach, which is protected anyway.
• Autumn & Spring – Intermedaites+. It’s a mixed bag in these transition periods. You will definitely have punchier waves than in the peak summer. However, I’ve seen mellow 2-foot sets in November but also double overheads a week later. It’s a risk if you’re a complete beginner but hotels/beaches/surf camps will be a lot quieter.
• Winter – Advanced surfers flock to Ericeira to make the most of the biggest swells of the year. There are days when it’s okay for other levels but I would not plan a trip here between Nov and March if I wanted to learn.

Here’s a more in-depth look at what each season brings…

The reason we get to that conclusion is that there is stuff for total beginners but not as much as in other towns like Sagres and Peniche.

You have to remember that the north side of town is WSL World Surfing Reserve and was mainly designated for its barreling reef breaks.

The harder breaks that pull in heavier swells via the deeper underwater canyons wait on the north side of town – think Coxos and Sao Lourenco. The easier waves where the surf schools usually go await to the south in the form of Foz do Lizandro and Praia do Sul.

The summer, though, is almost never completely flat for very long on this part of the Portuguese Atlantic and we think it’s just about wonderful for people who have surfed before and want to improve.

That said, I’d probably recommend Baleal in nearby Peniche as a better beginner spot overall.

Renting a surfboard in Ericeira

The N247 road that links the countless surf spots in Ericeira is like a montage of surf schools and surf shops.

You’ll find the bulk of the places to rent a board in the heart of the town and spread out between the more expert-ready coves to the north. However, you’ll also catch a surfboard outfitters down on Foz do Lizandro, the go-to beginner surf spot in the region.

That said, most people either bring their own board to Ericeira or rely on the stash in their chosen surf hostel or surf camp.

If you’re booked onto a package then you’ll usually find that surfboard and gear rental is included in the cost of your stay. And that’s not just for the lessons you’ve booked. It also usually means unlimited use of the gear whenever you want to head to the beach on your own.

The good news is that because there are so many places offering surfboard hire in Ericiera then you can get very affordable deals…

As of 2024/25, the going rate for a beginner softop with a wetsuit for the day is about €20-30 EUR, while intermediate boards and a front-zip wetsuit usually cost about €30-35, with discounts available on weekly rentals.

There are also services like this one that offer drop-off at your hotel for an extra €10 or something like that, so you won’t even need to head out and pick up your gear.

Ericeira travel essentials

Where is Ericeira?

Roughly a third of the way between the Costa Estoril – Lisbon’s main coastline – and the region’s other surf mecca of Peniche (better for beginners), Ericeira makes its home neatly on the central Portuguese coast.

It’s one of the larger towns you’ll encounter as you head away from the beautiful Sintra-Cascais Natural Park.

The town itself sits right on top of the famous Praia dos Pescadores – a gorgeous dash of golden sand that’s either side of the main surf breaks.

How to get to Ericeira?

Ericeira’s proximity to Lisbon means it’s actually one of the more accessible surf towns in the country. Here’s a guide to how you can expect to get in…

• Fly – Try to fly to Lisbon. It’s around just 30 minutes’ drive away. Airlines include low-cost carriers like Ryanair and easyJet. Connections in the off-season months of the winter can cost as little as £15 each way – you’ve just got to be sure to book early. Summers are more expensive.
• Bus – It costs under €7 per person to get from Lisbon to Ericeira. Look for the station at Campo Grande, from where connections go regularly. Links are more often in the summer but do run all year. You can use Omio to plan and pre-book train and bus journey throughout Portugal.
• Car/van – Ericeira is well linked to the main A8 highway that goes through the heart of the Lisbon region. That, in turn, connects to the E1 motorway, which runs north-to-south through the whole country. It’s easy to get in by car or van. The whole journey takes about 35 minutes from Lisbon and just under three hours from Porto. On top of all that, car rentals in Portugal tend to be CHEAP. More on that below…

Should I rent a car to surf in Ericeira?

You can get here on public buses from Lisbon and then make it to most of the beaches by public bus.

There’s even a sort of ski bus here for the surf. It’s called the Ericiera Beach Bus and runs loops around the main town beaches throughout the summer months. It’s cheap – costs like a euro per ride. But there are downsides – it can be delayed and it can be busy, plus it doesn’t go to ALL the beaches you might want to surf, particularly if you’re the more adventurous type.

That’s an awesome power in this part of Portugal, when Peniche is only an hour to the north and Nazare only a bit further and tons more in between – you’re talking more surf spots than you could possibly hope to get through in a single holiday between the two of those, plus access to more secret beaches along the way.

How to get around Ericeira

• Foot: Walk the old town – seriously, it’s one of the joys of being here. It might not take you to the Ericeira surf breaks, but there’s nothing like navigating cobbled lanes lined littered with cafés and bars.
• Bus: Some geniuses in Ericeira have stolen the idea of a ski bus from their winter compadres in the Alps. A dedicated shuttle now runs routes between Ribeira D’Ilhas and Foz do Lizandro in the south, connecting all the best beach breaks and spots. It’s a mere €1 for a ride. Each shuttle is armed with a designated surfboard storage spot. Nice, eh?
• Car/van: There’s loads of parking around the beaches in Ericeira. However, it’s normal for spaces to go super fast in the middle of summer or when the surf is working at a particular break. We’d also check ahead with your chosen accommodation that there’s parking available on site wherever you book.

What’s the currency in Ericeira

You’ll pay with euros (€) in Ericeira. This is Portugal – remember!

There are couple of ATMs around the centre of the town.