Cantabria Surf Guide – North Spain’s Gem
Occupying just under 150 miles of the north Spanish coast, Cantabria is perfectly placed to hoover up those westerly swells that come across the Bay of Biscay like clockwork from Septembe to March.
They’re the same swells that power the famous breaks of the Pais Vasco (the Basque Country), although the geology here makes for slightly different surfing.
Without the sheer-cut cliffs of its near neighbour, Cantabria is dashed with long and sloping beaches that offer lots of good beginner locations (Berria, Liencres, and more).
It’s quite exposed stuff, but on medium swells it can be the finest place to learn in the country – think sand-bottomed breaks with bags of space. Of course, it’s not always that small in this corner of Europe.
By late autumn, the winter storms start kicking and key spots can show real teeth. Come winter, things hit much harder – temps and sets – and it’s probably better territory for advanced surfers.
The industrial city of Santander is at its heart. To the east, you have bays that face north-east. To the west, they open onto the Atlantic a little more. The upshot? You can surf both sides, but western Cantabria tends to be far more reliable and better in the summer months.
We might use affiliate links in this post. Basically, you click em’ and we get a little something from your booking or purchase. They help us keep offering more and more in-depth surf guides to awesome places all around the globe. So, thanks for that!
>>This guide is just one part of our full guide to surfing in Spain
Cantabria surf at a glance
The good:
- West-facing beaches with good summer waves
- Good beach breaks
- Not very crowded
The bad:
- Some localism
- Pollution near to Santander
- Unreliable east coast in the summer
FAQs about surfing in Cantabria
Yes – many of Cantabria’s beaches, like Somo, Berria, and Liencres, have mellow inside sections and surf schools catering to learners. On smaller days, even spots with heavier reputations can be beginner-friendly.
Definitely. Even in summer, the water rarely goes above 21°C, so most surfers wear a 3/2mm suit from June to September. In winter and spring, you’ll want a 4/3mm plus boots, and probably gloves and a hood if you’re out in colder spells.
The prime season is autumn (September–November) when the Atlantic sends in consistent, long-period swells, winds are lighter, and the water is still relatively warm. Winter brings the biggest surf, ideal for experienced surfers, while summer is smaller and more suited to beginners.
Where is Cantabria?
Cantabria is wedged between Pais Vasco (that’s the Spanish Basque Country) and the region of Asturias – two of the most popular surf areas in all of Spain.
It’s really the heart of northern Spain, situated a tad over 100 miles from the French border and just shy of 190 miles from A Coruna and the Galician Atlantic coast. The capital of Spain, Madrid, is some 250 miles as the crow flies directly to the south.
Aim to fly into Santander, which now has an airport with Ryanair and other flight connections. Rent a car from there (I tend to use Discover Cars in Europe as they’ve consistently offered me the cheapest rates) – I’d say it makes a surf trip in these parts much, much better.
Where to surf in Cantabria?
I think you can look at Cantabria as two surf regions: the east and the west. I’ll put the dividing line between the two at the Cabo de Ajo, the headland that marks the northernmost point in the region.
The premier area is certainly the west, beacuse it gets a bit more swell action thanks to the protection cast by the Cabo de Ajo. But that doesn’t mean you don’t get decent spots (and smaller crowds) in the east, especially if you’re looking for shelter from bigger swell systems.
If I had to generalize, I’d say that the east is more suited to beginners and the west for more advanced surfers, but it’s conditions on the day that really determine all that.
Surf spots in eastern Cantabria
Eastern Cantabria is the more sheltered of the two halves to the region. It’s also a little more rugged, taking some of the high cliffs of its Pais Vasco neighbour. Generally speaking, the surf is a touch smaller and better for beginners.
Laredo
Laredo’s main beach – Playa de La Salvé – actually faces due east a bit, so it’s hardly going to be the most reliable spot in a region where dominant groundswells are all westerly.
On really big winter days it can get going nicely as they wrap around the headland and drift into the bay. When it does that, the surf is pretty nice.
Unbroken sets will spread right across the beach and offer nice lefts in particular. Hazards are minimal with just sand underfoot.
We’d say: A fantastic beginner and intermediate spot when its huge in the midwinter. There’s also always Playa de Berria (see below) less than 30 mins’ drive away.
>> Read our complete surf and travel guide to Laredo
Berria
The one-mile length of beach at Berria is something of a hidden gem in eastern Cantabria, mainly because it’s not that well known. Or, at least, it’s known to only locals who have been coming here to learn to surf in the local schools for some years now.
Sandbanks give the shape, so these are punchy and peaky beach breaks with glassy conditions on northerly offshore.
During the summer and autumn, it reigns as one of the best beginner spots in the region thatnks to the sand bottom and good protection from surrounding coast mountains. One to consider if you’re learning for sure.
>>Read a full guide to surfing in Berria right here
El Brusco
Just one beach over from Berria is El Brusco. We think this is the best of all the eastern Cantabria surf spots, actually. It’s possible to see sucky peaks rolling in around the peninsula to give often hollow walls and tubes. It’s not consistent but it’s a corker when it’s on.
Works better when the swell is larger. Look out for localism when its pumping.
Noja
Noja comes alive sometimes and when it does it’s great. The north-facing beach of Playa de Ris has the goods. I’ve witnessed OH walls holding there between the rock stacks. Of course, said rock stacks are a hazard, as are locals with a bit of a temper.
Chances are you’ll be the only one around though, so worth checking, esp on big W winds because there’s nice protection from those in this bay.
>>Read our full guide to the surfing in Noja
Surf spots in western Cantabria
Western Cantabria has the most reliable spots here IMO. The beaches and coves in this part of the region face the Atlantic head on, so they get the brunt of the best W-NW swells.
That means they can offer loads of summer surf (generally for learners) and some pretty heavy conditions when the winter comes around.
Langre
Langre does get a bit more W and NW swell than El Brusco and others and it’s now seen as one of the top learner locations in Cantabria, only still off the beaten path a little.
I really like the wave when it’s working, too. It’s a neat triangular peak with rippable shoulders that fatten out over shallower sandbanks. Short rides but fun for turn practice. Also, it’s not often crowded, so there’s that.
>>We have a full guide to surfing in Playa de Langre
Santa Marina Island
Santa Marina Island is a really heavy reef that’s for pros only. It breaks off the edge of the rocky island of the same name, which you can see in the bay opposite the harbour of Santander.
It’s almost big-wave stuff, with a gun required to get into the barrel on the strongest swell days. Surf travelers should spectate only. Sorry, but this is localism central, and the Spanish won’t hold back.
Playa de Somo
Playa de Somo is the best spot for beginners in Cantabria. It’s a mellow beach break that gets good shelter from the coast as it juts north with Santander city right beside.
Flat days can strike in the summer but there’s almost always something to play with, even if it’s crumbly waves for practice and the like.
There’s sand underfoot so little to worry about. Somo is now the epicener of Cantabria’s surf school industry and a great place to head for a surf trip if you’re trying to improve and don’t want to DIY.
Locals schools here are based on the beach, offering some of the best packages for beginners in the region.
>> Read our full guide to surfing in Playa de Somo right now
Santander
The city of Santander is right in the middle of some of the best Cantabrian surf spots. You can’t go wrong staying here.
Short drives to the east and west will open up the beginner-fav of Somo surf, or the more challenging offering at Langre (when it’s working). But you’ll also be able to access the breaks further west, like Liencres.
All that plus the stacks of culture offered by the city itself.
Liencres
Home to arguably the best surf all-round spot in Cantabria, Liencres is a town that has access to a punchy beach break that really hoovers up the NW swell over the Cantabrian Sea.
The new orientation of the beaches past Santander means it will often be working in the summer months, and gives something heavier for intermediates in the winter.
Sandbanks govern the wave style, but they’re usually arranged to offer A-frame tubes on 8ft swells, which goes mellow and cruisy when it’s smaller. Fantastic option for multi-level groups and just about anyone TBH.
>> Read a full surf-travel guide to Liencres
Suances
Suances lays claim to Los Locos beach, which is a bit of a Cantabrian swell magnet because it threads down the side of a peninsula to get a direct west-facing orientation.
Waves are almost always bigger here than elsewhere in the region, but the sandbanks do a nice job of aligning the sets and offering shape.
The best of them come off the point at the north end of the beach, which gives a lovely, bending right through the bay. There are others too. Oh, and there’s always a crowd when it’s going.
Consider this one and the same as Suances. That’s the town where you’ll stay. Los Locos is the beach that you’ll surf.
>> Read our complete guide to surfing in Suances right here
San Vicente de la Barquera
San Vicente de la Barquera has the feel of a really charming fishing town, but it’s got two long beach breaks right on the doorstep.
I pick it as one of the best undeveloped surf towns on the Cantabrian coast.
Sand-bottomed breaks for all levels, an old castle, and good vibes all round. Oh yea, and a new Dreamsea surf camp – that’s not to be underestimated!
>> Read a full surf and travel guide to San Vicente de la Barquera
When to surf in Cantabria?
The autumn (September-November) is the peak time to surf in Cantabria, while summer is generally the best time for beginner surfers.
Summer (June-August)
Swell days dip to around 40% of the time in the summer months. And that’s for the more exposed western half of Cantabria. In the east, you’re looking at about 18-20% surfable days in a month. When waves do come, they’re much better for beginners than for advanced surfers.
In fact, the summer is high time to do a surf camp here. Weather and sea are both warm and you can get some great conditions for practicing in.
Autumn (September-October)
Autumn sees an uptick in the power and consistency of the Atlantic groundswells. On the Cantabrian sea, that tends to move NW-SE, which means breaks like Los Locos are the first to get going when September swings around.
Thing is, while it gets bigger thorughout the season, there should still be plenty of days of small-to-mid sized swell to keep the learners happy too.
Small crowds are the real gift, and we’d actually put autumn up there as the peak time to go surfing northern Spain as a whole.
Winter (November-March)
Winter is considered the heart of the season for surfing northern Spain. We actually prefer spring and autumn because the winter storm surges can ruin the beach breaks in this region and mean otherwise fun spots like Los Locos and Somo are completely blown out.
Mild winters are the best of the bunch, with chest-high swells that play into the hands of the Cantabrian shortboard crowd.
Spring (April-May)
Spring is a fun time on the Cantabria surf. As the storms start to quell a little out in the Atlantic, you can get good swells but with less onshore winds and more glassy conditions. Earlier in the season is when wrap-around swells are more likely to power up eastern Cantabria, with Somo and past that working well for upper beginners and intermediate practicers.
Where to stay when surfing in Cantabria?
Surf camps in Cantabria
The region of Cantabria has to be one of the most upcoming surf camp destinations in Europe. More and more people are looking to this wild corner of northern Spain for waves that are emptier than the Canaries and swell that can keep things happening all summer long.
Camps are basically the easy planning option. You pay one price a complete package that usually includes accomodation, surf lessons, surf gear, and transport to the waves at a bare minimum. Sometimes, food and extra activities are thrown in to boot. It can be a godsend for beginners who aren’t ready to plan a full trip to different beaches.
You’ve got a handful of great camps operating across the various beaches here, but the best are around the surf mecca of Somo…
- Latas Surf House – Latas Surf is our pick of the surf camps in Cantabria. They have packages that check off all the basics – daily surf, equipment, and ISA-level instructors, and even every meal you’ll eat throughout the stay. But they also have a fantastic property that’s a joy to return to after a day at the beach. It’s very sociable and suitable for all levels of surfer. Based right behind Somo Beach.
- Dreamsea Cantabria – This one only runs in the summer (June to early September) on account of the fact that you stay in glamping bell tents. It’s a really cool way to get out and about and get that trademark quality Dreamsea surf teaching, which comes in five lessons plus add-on surf theory.
>> Read our full guide to the top surf camps in Spain for more inspo
Top surf hotels in Cantabria
Cantabria doesn’t have the same bulk of purpose surf lodges as, say, south Portugal. But that’s the charm. There’s not too many people around and no mass surf culture. Yet.
What there most certainly are: Eco lodges with amazing views, charming village stays near to surf beaches, and self-catering options aplenty.
Some of the options we can wholeheartedly recommend are…
- Hotel Mar Azul & Surf – This lovely boutique hotel puts the awesome break of Los Locos right on the doorstep (about 5-10 mins walk from room to waves). It’s also a downright stunning accommodation choice, boasting kitschy rooms layered with seagrass rugs and geometric art. You can walk to the beach and there’s a pool outside. What more could you want?
- Aloha Surf Hostel – The budget option of the region is this super-highly-rated surf hostel in Somo. It’s literally 100 meters from the main spots, offering a neat, modern communal space and cool pod-style dorm beds.
- Somo Garden Villas – Spacious units set a bit back (like 10 mins walk) from Somo Beach. I think they are among the best pads for couples since they offer a peaceful retreat with nice views and terraces, all with a touch of authentic north Spain style.
Things to do when you’re not surfing in Cantabria
Surfing in this part of northern Spain means you get some of the country’s more off-the-beaten-path attractions on the doorstep.
I have to say, I actually LOVE Cantabria. It’s a region that can steal the heart pretty darn easiliy, and one of the few on the whole planet where you can hike alpine-style mountains one day and surf world-class waves the next.
When the waves aren’t working, you should be sure to check out…
- Picos de Europa National Park – The Picos are the defining mountains of northern Spain. THEY. ARE. INCREDIBLE. It’s like someone dropped a sliver of the Alps right on top of the Bay of Biscay. There are fantastic day hikes that you can do, but a car is a neccessity – I’d highly reccomend the epic Cares Trail through one of the main gorges. Alternatively, there are affordable, jam-packed day trip options that leave from Santander.
- Sierra del Escudo – This small range of mountains in the deep south of Cantabria looks more like something out of Scotland than Spain. It’s a mecca for walkers and wildlife lovers and generally much quieter than the Picos de Europa.
- Saja-Besaya Natural Park – Venture inland to the Saja-Besaya Natural Park and you’ll get to see the lush mountainous backcountry of Cantabria. It’s not very well known, so you can find yourself totally alone on the hiking paths.
We might use affiliate links in this post. Basically, you click em’ and we get a little something from your booking or purchase. They help us keep offering more and more in-depth surf guides to awesome places all around the globe. So, thanks for that!
